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2004 (Jan to July) Wednesday, January 7 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Paul, Look in my Reading Sources page for websites that carry these manuals -- a great place for FACTORY books is RepairManuals.com (I would have given you the exact page, but you didn't include the year -- and if you don't see it, there is an 800 number to call). Good luck and happy wrenching! Mama Thursday, January 8 For Alex who was battling problems after installing a hypercharger kit: I know she said she had a hesitation at cruising speeds but she also said that when she gives it gas it takes off. Where is the hesitation then -- through normal acceleration? I just don't know enough about her bike to help her out completely. If she is still running with her stock exhaust then she's running the bike to rich with these jets she may have it the best she will get it. She could easily test this by removing the baffles from the bike and moving the e-clip back to the 4th pin and running it then. This will lean the bike out and let the air flow better through the exhaust. If this proves true then she would be better off installing a aftermarket exhaust on it or drilling out her existing baffles. David (note from Mama: thanks for brainstorming some other approaches to this problem!) Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Nikko, Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Michael, Monday, January 12 From Sarah who continues to learn and work on her Bonnie bike: Yes ma'am. You know I want to get back on the Bonnie. After a week of calling, I'm not surprised to find the customer service rep for Triumph America neither answers his phone nor his messages. Admittedly, this high school English/yearbook teacher working 120% can't get to the phone too many times during bankers' hours. I'm impatient to get the bike fixed and get back on, and they're probably counting on that. An online search showed several people with the same problem, and only one got his warranty claim after three weeks. I accept the challenge wholeheartedly...learning to understand the bike as a mechanical individual, looking forward instead of backward. And I keep riding every chance I get. The husband continues to shake his head in wonder. Me, too. I'm a Luddite...I don't even like hedge trimmers, but motorcycles have me fascinated. Cheers, Sarah (note from Mama: way to stick with it! This is truly inspiration!) Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Ohio Rider, Monday, January 12 In response to basic long term storage procedures, but I'll be darned tooting rooting if I can find where I originally posted this list: I'm not putting you down or being wise with you. I think it's great to see women ride. I wish my wife would. I just thought that maybe you could give some other ideas [to the basic procedures for long term storage]. I am 35 I have worked on bikes since I was 12. I have never had a bike that sat over the winter and not start in the spring for me. I have 3 Harley's as of right now -- a '64 Panhead, '80 Superglide and '03 Deuce. The Superglide I have had the longest and she has never let me down. My Pan is a little stubborn cause she's older and I have to kick her to wake her up, but after 5 kicks she fires from a winter slumber. I will expect my Deuce to be the best of the 3 cause she is the newest of the bunch. Keep up the good work on the site. I have had my wife on the new '04 1200 Custom -- she liked the bike -- maybe I could get her to ride some day so I can buy it for her. Would really enjoy seeing her hit the road on my Panhead. 1. Change the oil, I will agree with. Tuesday, January 13 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
SMF, Meanwhile, I do not know your specific bike, so if someone reading this has the answer, please chime in! Mama Monday, January 19 More from Sarah who continues to learn and work on her Bonnie bike: Alas, for a woman to get results it seems it's still necessary for The Husband to speak sternly to the service manager. We finally picked up the Bonneville last week after an odyssey of carb problems. The ignition coil had to be replaced. Also, when they stripped the paint off the inside of the tank and flushed it, they didn't get it completely dry, so there was water in the gas. Credit is due to the service manager... he made the mechanics retrace their steps until they found all the problems. So, just as the weather is warming up a bit, I'm back on the Bonnie. Now I know two ways to check the tank for sediment myself and recognize a coupla other problems, too. Thanks for all the support. Sarah (note from Mama: It is a sad commentary on our times that women still have to seek "male" intervention to get satisfactory results when a problem occurs. I am glad however that Robert was able to finalize the necessary steps to get the Bonnie up and running better, although you still have to baby her to make sure all is well. Take heart sister . . . you are not alone!) Monday, January 19 For Nikko whose bike isn't idling all that well: It sounds to me that you may have a picked up something in your main jet. You might be able to fix this by adding some carb & choke cleaner to the gas. There are several out there you could use. They are sold at your local auto parts store. I would drain the gas out of the tank that's in it now. I would then refill the tank about 3 quarters of the way with at least a 93 octane. Add your carb & choke cleaner. Then take the bike for a couple mile ride. If you have to ride it on choke for a couple miles so be it. After that I would try to go to 1/2 choke for a couple miles. I would keep doing this till the bike ran off choke fully and idled fine. I would also run most of that fuel out of the tank then refill it with a high octane again (93 0r better) This is a way to cheat and not have to remove the carb from the bike but doesn't always work. If you have to remove the carb then I would clean it with a gunk spray carb & choke cleaner. This is always simple do to location of carb sometimes. Sometimes the hardest part is getting it off the bike.but once it's removed you would remove screws from the bowl. after removing the bowl you'll notice the float and main jet. The float is removed by the pushing out the float pin. Don't lose the needle valve. The main jet can then be removed. Most of the jets on this small of a carb are 8mm but please check it don't trust me on that. Once the jet is removed you can now blow threw it with air in both direct to free any particles and clean any gummed up gas off it. All other jets can be removed by just counting the screw turns out so you know how to reset them when you put it back together. Good luck. I hope this helps. David D. (note from Mama: I am greatly appreciative of you taking the time to outline some thoughts that will help us all diagnose such a problem in the future. Of course it helps!) Tuesday, January 27 For Mike who wants to use a Battery Tender to keep the battery charged: Very good choice. This is a great item. Yes, you can leave the caps on the battery. As VTwin Mama said, just check the water level on the battery prior to putting it on charge. David D. (note from Mama: sounds good to me!) Thursday, January 29 Dear
VTwin Mama, PS - love the section for us 'vertically challenged women' as I'm almost 5 ft tall! Diane Petty Dear
Diane, My very first thought, depending on the weather conditions of where you live, is to ride that beasty of yours to the local dealer and have the service department take a quick look at the installed belt. Just tell 'em your "story" and I'm sure they'll give you the pointers you need (and identify the kit type that was installed). On
the Internet I found an 8 page FAQ for your bike for belt drive
conversions from ScootWorks that may help you: http://www.earthwebworks.com/scootworks/docs/belt_800_faq.pdf. Wednesday, February 4 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Thani, Monday, February 9 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Diane, While a new seat may indeed be the solution to your problem, given your back problem, I would look a little deeper into your overall body position when you're on the bike. What do I mean (well, I'm sure I have some sort of clue!)? If you were to sit in a chair (perhaps at your kitchen table), and mimic "the bike," what would be the most comfortable position of your back, arm and legs? Now, go to the bike, take the same position and evaluate everything. Are you reaching slightly to the hand controls? Is the seat too wide, thus forcing your legs out that causes your back to compensate? Are these ok, except you could use some support right at the small of your back, or perhaps you need to remove the brunt of the air impact on your body when traveling at 60-75mph on longer rides? Perhaps your legs are being forced into a position that is tiring your back. With these added insights you are in better position (!) to determine your solution set. Pullback risers would bring the handlebar closer to you so that you're not bent over to reach them. A narrower seat might offer more comfort. Or, look into a sissy bar with sliding backrest that you could position to support your entire body. In addition, you might want to consider adding a windshield (if you don't already have one) to "flow" the air away from your body (I find the air hitting my body on longer trips to be quite tiring). I find a windshield also removes the air force from my neck and shoulders (the added weight of a helmet can really impact the back). Leg position (and the impact on your back) may be helped by adding highway pegs so that you can change leg (and therefore back) positions during the course of a longer ride so that you're not fixed into one position the whole time. Once you've look closer at all these impact points, then it's time to visit your local dealer and discover solutions available for your model bike. I'll also add this. I've met many women riders who are able to ride long distances with nary an impact on their physical stamina. I'm not one of them! I have determined that I need to stop every 100 miles (no matter what the gas gauge says!) and take a break. It's both mental and physical. Never be afraid to determine your boundaries and ride accordingly. It's the mark of a smart VTwin Mama sister! Mama Monday, February 9 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Wally, Friday, February 20 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Joan (you old granny and VTwin Mama sister!), Thursday, February 26 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Dave, The fact is that if the new pipes constrict the flow of the burnt air/gas mix that fires the bike to move, then changes usually have to made elsewhere to compensate. Here's a paragraph I found on the Internet: "By properly re-jetting the carburetor and adding a free flowing air cleaner to an engine with drag pipes, the maximum horsepower produced will improve over the stock engine. But there is a difference between usable power and maximum horsepower. The maximum horsepower of two engines may be similar, but the horsepower torque curves may be different. The area under the horsepower and torque curves defines the "power" the engine produces. The more area that is under the curve, the better the power." This suggests to me that you might do well to invest a few dollars to bring your bike to a local dealer that offers an equipment system that can rev up your machine (with the new pipes) and analyze the performance of the engine with the new exhaust system. In this way, the whole carb/air system can be monitored and changes made accordingly. Most sites I visited said the same thing -- if you make this change, beware the consequences to engine wear and performance. This is NOT the time to skimp on getting things right! If you're guessing, then the engine life will suffer. While I'm all for the "do it yourself" school of motorcycle maintenance and upgrades, I am also very aware that there are some things which are beyond my scope, and if they are slightly beyond yours, seek assistance from qualified professionals. You mentioned that you surfed the 'net for Virago tech support. Did you run across the Virago Owner's Club? They may have some insights for you if you haven't already tried this site. They have a "Ask Our Tech" link which will lead you to this email address: drpiston@sbcglobal.net. My guess is this person may prove to have more specific answers for you. Good luck! Mama Hi
Mama, Dear
Keri, Still, the fact is that this is a lightweight bike that's going to get its tail kicked by the wind. But what to do technically, if anything?! I don't have the answers, but there's a Honda Rebel site that is run by a guy that knows everything about them. Just surf to the bottom of the page to find the phone number in Florida and an email address. I'd be asking the "guru" on this subject! Mama Wednesday, March 10 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
No Name, Start by checking the spark plugs. They may be gunked, old, or mis-gapped or all of the above! Also, pull the carb's air filter and clean and/or replace. Bad airflow is a good formula for what you're describing. Also check that the bolts that secure the exhaust pipe(s) are tight. May even need new gaskets here. Check your gas filter for crud build-up. If the bike is older, you may need to adjust the point gap and timing. TIME TO GET A MAINTENANCE MANUAL! Check my Reading Sources page for sites that offer manuals or visit your local dealer. But get one! Your bike will thank you! Mama Wednesday, March 17 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Manx, Wednesday, March 17 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Esperanza, Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Rebecca, Seat selection and comfort are highly individual choices. And I tried to find a discussion board or article on the subject and came up with nill. Other than if your seat isn't working, you can get gel pads to make things more comfy. And if the new seat puts your body in a new position it doesn't like as well, but you like the seat, you could change out the handlebars or get a pullback riser. Geez, I'm not really making much progress here. My only other suggestion is to go to a specific Harley Softail Deuce discussion forum to talk with riders of your make/model bike. HELP readers! Mama Thursday, March 25 For Rebecca who is looking for a new seat for her Deuce: My roommate has an '04 Deuce with a Corbin Gunfighter seat on it. It's a great looking seat, makes the bike look really custom. He swears it is the most comfortable seat he's had, and he has a bad back, so it must be good. I recently put a Corbin solo on my Sportster, and can attest to their quality and comfort. Li in Florida (note from Mama: the Corbin Gunfighter has been mentioned many times as an excellent seat and sounds like its worth checking out!) First I would like to say great choice in the ride, The Deuce is one of my rides also. As VTwin Mama said, look into Corbin saddles. They have a great solo seat, I would look on eBay I have seen many listed on there in great condition and half the price as new. I would love to go with the solo seat but I ride two up still. I could do it but then when I brought my wife I would have to ride one of the older bikes she hates the Panhead and the Shovelhead is too stiff (need to get her on her own bike). What is cool about the Deuce is that they make a filler for the solo seat that is colored for your bike -- it goes from the front mounting hole to the rear mounting hole to hide all the holes in the fender for the sissy bar mount. I have a picture on my computer of a Deuce with a Corbin solo if you like I can send it to ya. As always ride safe and ride often.. David (note from Mama: thanks for the added note that checking eBay may result in a good seat but at a reduced cost -- changing things on bikes can get pricey!) Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Deb, Now, on to your question. For general knowledge on exhaust pipe terminology, check out this article on the J&P Cycle Tech site. Then I went to the Vance & Hines site and under the Metric section, clicked on both models and played the audio. The Cruzer style sounded "throatier" to me, but why don't you have a listen?! I personally liked the cleaner lines on the Straight Shots, but that's just me! Since both are made for your exact year/model/make bike, it's a matter of preference. You should just have to unbolt at the top and at the bottom mounting brackets. If the new pipes need new mounting configurations, then that hardware is usually included, but don't forget to get new gaskets for the top. Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Ray, Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Lou Ann, Dear
VTwin Mama, I switched the plug wires around thinking it might be a wire, and even switched the wires from the coil to opposite cylinders, but still the rear cylinder is cool along with the rear pipe. If I remove the rear wire while the engine is running there is a big difference, and the motor misses even more. Seems to be it must be firing at least some. Even went back and installed one of the old plugs on the rear cylinder, but no difference. Any clue as to what might be causing this? Mark Dear
Mark, Since I'm a great believer in the KISS principle, I'd start with these checks and then go from there. Also, and again from experience, the timing could have slipped, affecting the firing of the cylinders -- but this takes more equipment to do right (check and adjust) and may be something to have the dealer do. Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, I have been searching for a solution for something to rest my back against when riding. I came across a few things but they are so expensive and of course in U.S. currency so that is out. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated especially if home made. Thanks. SE Wright Dear
SE Wright, Saturday, April 3 Yes, the dealer confirmed this and I took the battery to the dealer. But, I just can't understand why in the world this must be done. Thanks for posting it -- we will see what others say. Have a good day. Lou Ann (note from Mama: well, I just got off the phone with my local dealer and Mike in service had never heard of this! He thought it was simply something written so that inexperienced riders wouldn't goof up, and of course, generates income for the dealer. But, he noted, that his shop is so swamped that if someone called him to charge their battery, he'd beg them to do it themselves with a trickle charger! ) Sunday, April 4 For Ray whose bike is blowing fuses some of the time: This is VTwin Mama herself talking! I just got off the phone with my Dad who is a retired electrician. He suspects an intermittent short somewhere in the wiring. Given the vibration of the bike and that the wires usually run up into and behind the headlight, look for a wire that has either been rubbed or been burned bare at a spot somewhere up front where you're turning the handlebar. So, sometimes when you're riding, the exposed portion of wire is hitting metal and shorting and blowing the fuse, and other times its not! The only other thing he can think of is that possibly you (accidentally) replaced the fuse with 1.5 instead of a 15 (an easy enough mistake to make according to him) and that's why the 10 amp is working, 'cause a 1.5 couldn't possibly handle the load. From VTwin Mama's Dad! Monday, April 5 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Steve, If the bike is trying to turn over, but just won't "catch," there's a good chance that the carb is gunked up from sitting so long (congealed inerds) and this takes specific directions to pull it off and apart to clean. And are you sure you checked the gapping on the spark plug -- 'cause if not, the bike isn't going to start no matter what you're doing. The main oil supply may be so "stuck together" that I suppose it's possible that it doesn't know what you think you're doing! Quite frankly, I'd visit the local dealer and have a heart-to-heart with the service manager or tech. Six years and sitting is a long time and I'm sure that they'll point out the most likely culprit things to check, drain, or replace. That's after they shake their heads a few times and chuckle to themselves, but don't let that put you off -- what the heck, carry on and get the bike running. Good luck! Mama Wednesday, April 7 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Mike, Thursday, April 8 Just wondering if the problem with the battery charger is the type of battery. My sis has a 2002 VStar 650 and she has a special battery. I believe it was called a "gel" battery. They just purchased a new one, (kind of expensive) but there was no acid or water to be added and she didn't have to charge it before putting on the bike. Away she went! Michele Stoneking (note from Mama: I did a bit of Internet research on the gel battery -- and found that you can charge a gel, but need a special trickle charger or battery tender designed for gels. So that's not it! ) Monday, April 19 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Roy, Tuesday, April 20 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Wayne, These are my beginning thoughts, but would add that if possible, get a copy of the maintenance manual for your year/make/model bike so you have a handy reference to all things "bike" related -- truly useful and a must have! Check my Reading Sources page for Internet sites that offer these, or does the UK have a version of Amazon.com (the big book store) -- they carry lots of manuals. Mama Wednesday, April 21 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Ron, Thursday, April 22 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Jesse, Tuesday, April 27 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Rob, Wednesday, April 28 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
MissMax, In basic terms, a piston goes through the intake, compression, combustion and exhaust strokes every two revolutions of the crankshaft, and the piston pins connect the pistons to the crankshaft. So this is pretty important stuff (and even requires a very special tool so that the pistons aren't damaged in the process as they are manufactured to very exacting standards). I would have a heart-to-heart conversation with the mechanic for a detailed explanation of what is happening or happened. Any "jargon" that requires several takes to get the explanation is in order. Have him draw it out if necessary. Then, a breakdown of labor hours and parts is a must. The next step would be to explore the cost of a used system (which parts, what kind of warranties and guarantees on parts and workmanship, etc.). A second opinion from the local dealer (if the mechanic is not affiliated) or seeking out an independent mechanic may be worth your time. You may wish to seek out a discussion forum on the Internet specific to your make/model to see if this is a normal/abnormal occurrence at your stated mileage. Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, March 2003 recently my Kawasaki Eliminator 600 (1996) developed a flat back tire. As a single woman, I had a male friend who offered to assist-- gave up on his help after 4 weeks of not coming through. After 3 more months I finally found someone willing to trailer the bike (now the 4 carbs were gunked) to another shop. At this shop, the oil was changed, new batter installed, tire patched and carbs. gas-bathed (July 2003). When I got the bike back it was no longer the quiet "stealth bike" I loved but sounded more like a gigantic lawn mower. I questioned it and was informed he deliberately tuned it rich to "blow out" the carbs further. He said he'd adjust it back at my next oil change. A month later, he closed down his shop (rumor has it, the owner's working in a local lumber yard now). One time I succeeded in locating him and he agreed to meet with me on the upcoming Saturday to fix the situation- he was a no-show. I've since called him and he does not answer nor return my calls. In October, while idling in 1st gear after starting up the bike in my driveway, without giving it any gas, suddenly the RPMs redlined around 9000 and I found myself shooting like a rocked towards my closed front gate. The clutch failed, but the front break worked perfectly catapulting me over the handlebars and about 8 feet away from the bike. It did a job on my boots, jeans, gloves, jacket, and full-face helmet, but thankfully, I was not injured. Now here we are in 2004 and in March I finally again succeeded in finding someone willing to help me trailer it to another shop in a nearby town. The estimate came back: $690 JUST TO REDO THE CARBS, with a known $200 in other parts the carbs need not quoted on and no estimate for the repairs of the crash damage (smashed front consoles, bent handle bars, sheered off stop bolt...). The serviceman told me that the extensive work needed was because the last one to work on the carbs had no clue how to properly reassemble them. He also said the sudden launch was a direct result of the improperly assembled carbs. He added that an oil change was also included in the price as there was a lot of gas in the oil. I don't have the funds for these repairs, but also don't think I really should be the one paying for them. I hate the notion of involving a lawyer and no wonder, "is this new shop being straight with me as no one else has been?" Come to think of it, a third question: is there a resource for women to get together and learn how to work on their own bikes? No Name Dear
No Name, My first suggestion is this: stop being an under-educated woman about your own bike! It's time to get a couple of books and learn how a bike works, from the engine to the carbs, to the electrical, etc. No, you do not have to become a full-fledged mechanic, but understanding basic terms, internal workings and the like will be very much to your advantage in the future. Scroll down my Reading Sources page to the book section and you'll see a recommended book by Haynes on this. At the same time, pick up a maintenance manual that is specific to your year/make/model bike so you have a clue. There is simply no excuse for continuing to be at the mercy of others when a little bit of homework will put you "in the know." Next, I would suggest you contact local women's riding groups in your area -- the major organizations are listed on my Cool Links page. This will give you a group to kanoodle with and you'll find out all sorts of interesting things, the least of which may be which mechanics are considered honest and dependable in your area. In some cases, groups have arranged with local dealers shops to host a one day basic course on taking care of their bikes. An Internet search may reveal that a course is available in your area as well -- often times offered in the evenings or weekends over a stretch of time. Way back in the past, I did attempt to put together a list of women mechanics, but it resulted in only one submission, so this didn't work out to well and I've yet to find a source that lists women mechanics across the country. Now, get out there and make it happen for yourself. Riding a motorcycle is a life time learning experience and you've got every reason to go for it! Mama Thursday, April 29 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Roschelle, While my gut tells me that there's more to do (new spark plugs, tightening of exhaust pipe bolts, fuel filter cleaning, throttle adjustment check, and the like), it depends on how the power is bogging down. My suggestion is to take it to the dealer and have a service department mechanic ride it in the parking lot -- my guess is that they'll have a really good idea of what's going on (and this is free assessment, but try to go when the dealer isn't hopping nuts with customers!) Mama Thursday, April 29 Hi
VTwin Mama and friends, I'm relatively new to riding just got my bike this season (used 2000 Zuk Bandit 600, technically not VTwin) :-D I had my first ride Thursday when it was 59 degrees in Chicago. Yup, it was cold, but gosh darn it, I'm not going to let the stinking weather stop me on my FIRST RIDE!!!! I took the MSF class in the winter (in FL, NOT Chicago, ha ha!) HIGHLY suggest the MSF class. It teaches you a lot on safety and also gets you really comfortable with a motorcycle. And before the class I had NEVER been on a motorcycle, so I was a little nervous about getting on one. Also for those of us that are a little apprehensive about motorcycles, I suggest taking the class with a couple of friends. Even if you decide not to ride, it's definitely some fun bonding time in a safe controlled environment. If I hadn't gone with my sis and brother, I might not have been so keen on getting my bike when I was through with it (Also VTwin Mama site helped too). I wanted to give some tips to some of the shorter sisters out there (I'm one of them. Stand 5'3" 120 lbs). My Bandit comes stock height ad 30.5" or something around there. I actually couldn't ride my bike when I first got it because was too high; I got it lowered. If you're thinking of starting on a larger bike, you have to remember, those bikes are REALLY heavy so it helps for them to be lowered enough. The weight doesn't become much of a problem most of the time, but remember to get your bike lowered so you're FLAT FOOTED on the ground. Parking gets to be a P-A-I-N if you aren't. I had mine lowered and I was flat footed but then asked them to pick it up an inch because was worried the bike would bottom out if I hit a bump, or took my sis on the back. Now I wish I didn't. I'm just a touch tip toed, and it's hard to push that bike back into a space. But what a work out on the legs, so maybe it's a good thing? And one last tidbit and question. My first ride was Thursday, right? Well, came home really late, decided to just park my bike on the street in front of my apartment. I get up to go to work the next day and look out to admire my happy black Bandit and... some yellow rat bastard bumped my bike over! PAIN! ANGUISH! Broke the turn signals and scuffed up the fairings and engine. SNIFF!!!! Any suggestions on where to get some parts and stuff? Also some general questions about doing work like replacing the signals (I want to do it myself) Can I just buy any turn signal or is it specific to my bike? Intuitively, it seems like they shouldn't be dependent on my bike. I found this nice site for adding on flush mounted turn signals), so was thinking of putting those on since mine got busted. Also was thinking of getting frame sliders. I looked some of them up, but had a couple of questions. What's a swing arm slider? And are most sliders only installed around the engine area? (Now I'm really happy I got a nekkid bike because now I don't have to drill holes in side/engine fairings because I don't have any. Yay!) Thanks in advance, and HAPPY RIDING to all us new and experienced VTwin friends. Cheers, Lisa Dear
Lisa, So, you lowered the bike and then upped it again. If you don't want to go through that pain again, consider shaving some padding out of the seat or add a little height to your legs by adding some heel to your riding boots (a little goes a LONG way!). Even tippy toe on a bike is doable -- pre-judge your parking accordingly. Slight slant down, do a Y-turn in front of the spot and back it in, slight slant up, just ride it on in! That way you can ride it out or let gravity do the work to help you on your way again! Just park it at the angle that everyone else is parking and it doesn't matter if you're parking with the tail end in or out! Anybody gives you grief, just tell them to beef to me! As to the rat puke who damaged your beloved bike, this stuff happens! So, no more sniffles -- get on with it! Signals have a bolt that slides into the slot and are held in place with a nut and requires a simple adjustable wrench (or specific size and it's always useful to have the basic tools at hand -- a quick trip to any hardware store will result in a nice metric/US set of wrenches for very little mula). Parts can either be obtained from your local dealer (not a bad way to go on your first foray into fixing things), but then, check the Internet by search engine for sites that offer parts for your make/model (good pricing check, but figure in shipping costs). I'm not so clear on the swing arm slider thingy or frame slider for that fact. Readers . . .HELP! The only swing arm I know about is how the rear wheel attaches to the main frame that allows shocks to let the rear end ride with some give (so your rear end doesn't take the road jolts so hard!). Sigh. So much to learn yet! Mama Monday, May 3 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
dij, Monday, May 3 Dear
VTwin Mama, Compound that with the fact that the men around me preferred to see my bike out of commission because "it's just wrong for a woman to drive a motorcycle" and finding assistance has been a rare blessing. (I will check if there's a women's motorcycle group in the area too!) Thanks again for a listening ear and some very practical suggestions. : ) Brenda Somes Dear
Brenda, As to the men around you who prefer your bike out of commission -- it's time to jettison them. Yuck. Who would do that to another human being? Dreams are difficult enough without useless noise buzzing around our heads! Mama Monday, May 3 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
r.d., Tuesday, May 4 Hey Mama, Dear
Jeff, As to the VStar being a toy bike -- I beg to differ. It's a much loved bike and if you like it (mostly), then I'd stick with it and check out my suggestion. If you want to pursue the Virago question, I'd head to the Virago Tech Line (discussion forum) or check out the Motorcycle Forum & Discussion Directory to find people with your VStar to "talk" to. Mama Tuesday, May 4 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Robert, Still, I did a bit of searching on the Internet, and found this article which I think is very informative on the subject -- written by Mike Guillory, a Chemist, retired from a major Oil and Chemical Company after a career in the Quality Assurance of Fuels, Lubricants, and Chemical products. Give it a read and see if it doesn't shed the appropriate light on the subject for you. Mama Wednesday, May 5 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Boo-Boo, As to the product Rusteco, I've never heard of it. From my experience, a regular chrome cleaner takes off most of the crap I'm looking to remove, but looking at Rusteco's site, it looks like its made specifically for larger, more encrusted rust removal jobs. Let's see if any readers have more input! Mama Hey Mama, Dear
She-Daddy, Thursday, May 6 For She-Daddy whose Hondamatic has a locked front wheel with no key: There should be a key code stamped on the lock. With the
key code a Honda dealer (if they have an old blank) should be able to cut
a key that will work. Marion (note
from Mama: honestly, sometimes I miss the most obvious things -- thanks
for pointing this out!) Thursday, May 6 Dear
VTwin Mama, I only use regular now. He's the only one I truly trust to work on my bike and is a woman-friendly wrencher. He's no nonsense, no fluff and is always a straight shooter when it comes to tech advice. I ride with the Sisters of the Moon chapter of Women in the Wind based in Madison, Wisconsin and they all can't say enough nice things about their encounters with him. We're fortunate as I've read many sad e-mails from women who can't find an honest mechanic in their area. Aside from that article, his website has a lot of good information. Don't get me wrong, I love your site, but he's a good reference too! Thanks once again for all the hard work you put into making your website a joy to visit every day! Jennifer Dear
Jennifer, I appreciate that you love my site, but readily bow to the MANY great sites out there that contain useful information about the thousands of aspects of riding -- it's good to know that riders have lots of sources for information and that I'm an important cog in the whole effort! Mama Thursday, May 6 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Gail, Saturday, May 8 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Trying, Dear
VTwin Mama, I haven't been able to ride since last December. I found out that I have a rare brain disease and a brain aneurysm. I've been on a leave-of-absence the entire year and spent a month in the hospital . . . three weeks in ICU in Ft. Worth, then a week at The Mayo Clinic in Minnesota. So, I've had big life-altering things to think about. Fortunately, I'm doing very well and hope to return to work in a few weeks. Of course, I also hope to start riding again soon. I'm been living vicariously through everyone on the site. What a wonderful site it is!! I'm going to be nervous to ride again...not only due to the amount of time I haven't been able to ride, but also because I've undergone a very serious health crisis. I'm wondering if that's going to affect how I view riding now. I'm very fortunate to be able to have most of my health back and know how frightening it is to think that it could be gone forever. I think that I'll be much more cautious, if nothing else . . . not that I haven't been already. Anyway, I just wanted to share that. I really enjoy this site. I can relate to so many people who write in. Great job, Petra!! Linda Dear
Linda, As to the windshield, I myself prefer something high enough to cut the wind but low enough that I'm looking over it when I ride. Especially in Spring when bug splat is at its highest! Just cutting the blunt force from my chest keeps my head from taking all the strain. Funny thing is, depending on your height in the saddle, windshields are tricky to "measure" in terms of correct effect. I'm thinking it's worth a shot to trim your current one down so it meets your exact requirements. Let's see if other readers share their thoughts! Now, you've been visiting my site long enough that you can already hear what I would suggest for when you're ready to ride again! Take it slow and easy, head for an empty parking lot and get some practice time in. You'll want to regain your feel for the bike's handling characteristics -- set up a few markers to mimic traffic situations and get your smoothness back for starting, stopping, turns, curves and just a general overall sense of it. As to how your health crisis will affect your actual mental thinking on the road . . . well, that's one only you'll be able to find out by going out and trying. I would suggest that you keep your initial rides to the local area, with treats built-in for small accomplishments (I find a DQ ice cream to fit the bill perfectly!). It's a wonderful way to build confidence and address any riding concerns you might be experiencing without being a hundred miles away from home. Now, smile . . . you're about to continue your adventure in riding with a new perspective . . . and I think it's wonderful! Mama Saturday, May 8 From
VTwin Mama: http://www.mcworx.com/construction.htm Saturday, May 8 Dear
VTwin Mama: Do you know of anywhere that will custom make our shocks? It seems this shock is a hard find. Otherwise we are stuck with a bike I can't even ride. Also the clutch and brake are a far reach for my small hands. Why can't Harley just make a mini bike? Help needed in South Carolina Dear
Help Needed, Visit your local Yami dealer for clutch set-ups that are made for easier pulls and work for smaller hands. Too date, similar brake hand solutions are not available to my knowledge. As to why Harley doesn't just make a mini bike -- well, it probably has something to do with their core customer -- male and not height challenged! Mama Sunday, May 9 An added point for Deb who is considering new pipes: I just put a set of Vance/Hines on a 650 V Star to surprise
my wife for her birthday. If you can let Deb know, put the heat
shields on before you mount the pipes. It will save her a lot of
time and frustration. P.S Really enjoy your site!
Axie (note
from Mama: thanks for the added tip and letting me know you're enjoying
your visits to my site!) For Linda who is looking to cut down her windshield or . . .: Here I am again - I wanted to let Linda know that I had a Plexiglas shop cut an inch off the top of my windshield so I can look over it. They charged me $10, and it looks and works great! The shop also makes replacement shields, so they know their stuff. She might call a few shops in her area and find one that has done motorcycle shields before. I also wanted to mention that she should make a mark on
the windshield while sitting on the bike as to where she thinks she wants
it cut, and then double check the mark while riding. As you know, the
geometry of the bike will be different when actually riding, and if you
cut off too much, you can't get it back! I think Linda's enjoyment of
riding will be even greater than before, once she's given herself some
time to get her confidence back. Good luck to Linda! Thank you, as always.
Marina (note
from Mama: thanks for sharing some tips on shaving down a windshield --
lots of good first-hand information here!) Monday, May 10 For Ohio Rider who knows of a seat bolt that came undone and caused injury: I have had a similar problem with my VStar 650. The seat
bolt had backed amost all the way out before I noticed it.
April (note
from Mama: a timely reminder that bikes, no matter how "vibration
free," still are mechanical beasties that should be checked over for
bolt tightness integrity. I myself have a '76 Harley that absolutely
REQUIRES these checks on a regular basis or I'd be dumping parts along the
road all the time!) Tuesday, May 11 Dear
VTwin Mama: Dear
Behr, Saturday, May 15 For SE Wright who was looking for a backrest solution with her Savage: My husband put a HD backrest from his Harley (FLH) on my
girlfriend's Savage. He took the pillion off and made it smaller as well
as made up some brackets to mount the backrest on . He used the original
brackets for the sissy bar to hold the bracket. It looks great and has a
cargo rack. She won't have to sell her bike now. Hope this helps.
No Name (note
from Mama: thank you for sharing this alternative solution -- every little
bit helps!) Dear
VTwin Mama: Dear
Robin, First, why guess where things are on the bike?! Get a maintenance manual, either from your local dealer or visit my Reading Sources page for Internet sites that offer these manuals. It's a MUST HAVE item and includes troubleshooting guides, step-by-step procedures for routine maintenance (with pictures), suggested tools, lists of the EXACT oil, brake fluid, etc. you need, and much more. As to the bike sitting over the winter and the drop in power at the high end, it could be anything from a dirty carburetor (an additive to the gas tank will help clear this up), spark plugs that are at their wits end (dirty, fouled, etc. and should be changed every year no matter what), gas that has partially turned to turpentine (gas needs to be drained), a dirty fuel filter, a dirty air filter to the carb and even exhaust pipes bolts that are no longer tight. Now, go out, get the manual, and start reading! You'll find that with a little effort, you'll be wrenching in no time at all! Mama Monday, May 17 Dear
VTwin Mama: Dear
Sarah, Monday, May 17 Dear
VTwin Mama, We searched for a bike for me to ride and found a beautiful '83 Hondamatic 450. We threw a new battery and tires on it and it was perfect! That was 11 yrs. ago. Since then, all I've had done to it was have the bearings replaced and the usual maintenance items. I keep up with the "big boys" on long trips and get a lot of respect for my little beauty. If anyone can help me, I'm looking for new saddlebags to replace the originals. I've tried searching the web to no avail. Thanks and happy riding ladies! Martina Dear
Martina, Oops, one more thought -- visit the Hondamatic Owners Association -- website isn't much to look at (they have 750s), but there are a couple of contacts that might be able to help! Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Kristeena, Tuesday, May 18 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Doris, Although I knew where the location of my friend's battery was on her BMW 750, getting it out was a whole different kettle of worms (don't you just LOVE that mixed metaphor?!). The manual ultimately told me how it would eventually wiggle out so then I knew what to look for in removing stuff to get to it! Here is a site page that I think will help you! Meanwhile, check my Reading Sources page for links to sites that offer manuals or visit the local dealer to get one (you don't have to tell them why -- they'll just think you're a savvy woman looking to work on her own bike -- which you are!). Mama Saturday, May 22 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
R.J., Saturday, May 22 For Robin with a '95 Virago who is trying to locate the oil drain/fill: I recently purchased a '97 Virago 250 and had the same problem. I did not know where to change the oil either. I could not find a manual anywhere for the bike. I finally ended up calling a Yamaha dealer and talked to a nice guy who didnt mind helping. The drain plug is on the very bottom of the engine and it takes a special wrench to get it off. The plug is rather large and really doesnt look like what you would think it does. The guy told me it takes a metric wrench, but none of the wrenches I have fit it. You may need to take a mirror to put under the bike to locate it, it makes seeing it a lot easier. To add oil, the cap and dipstick are
on the right side of the bike (when sitting on it) and it is towards the
top of the engine. Hope this helps some.
April in MS (note
from Mama: every bit of information is always useful! And try RepairManuals.com
for service manuals -- while the $20 aftermarket manuals might not be
available, there is the distinct possibility of finding the factory
service manual -- usually around $60 -- a bit pricey, but something to
consider.) Monday, May 24 For Kristeena who is working on her Sabre's housing wiring: I would consult the folks on the Sabre Group website.
There are some real experts on Sabres there. Lots of great info and very
friendly people. Good luck!! http://www.thesabregroup.com/
Cheryl (note
from Mama: thanks for letting me know about this group!) Wednesday, June 2 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Deborah, Wednesday, June 2 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Mark, Thursday, June 10 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
David, Three, if the shock is factory, or you know the brand shock, hop onto the mfgs. site. Often times instructions will be available. Sorry I can't be of more help, but will note that the adjustment usually requires a long screwdriver and hammer! Mama Thursday, June 10 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Kitten, Thursday, June 10 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Roy, Bottom line, I think you need to do a complete PM on the bike, which should be done every year. Get a service manual from your local dealer for the basic list of routine maintenance tasks or visit my Reading Sources page for Internet sites that offer these manuals (usually around $20, but up to $60 for the factory version). Mama Monday, June 14 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Jay, Hello
VTwin Mama, Dear
Mark, Heres
some Internet chat: I own an 04 VTX Retro and one of the first
things I did was drill (4) 3/8 inch holes into the baffles of each exhaust
.I started with a 1/4 in. drill bit and drilled holes at 12, 3, 6 and 9
o'clock. Then I reamed each of these out with the 1/2 in. bit. The sound I
got is very nice. It's not overpowering but does increase the sound quite
nicely. I've noticed no drop in performance whatsoever. If you would
prefer, start with the smaller holes-start your bike-listen for the sound
you're looking for and progress to the bigger size accordingly. This took
me about 10-15 minutes total time. P.S. this was suggested to me from the
person at the dealership that sold me my VTX. Now, here is a site with diagrams! Its on a Honda VLX, but will give you a better view so youve got a better chance of drilling correctly! My site assumes no responsibility for what you are about to do (standard statement on all sites that offer drilling advice!). And while they say in many cases that performance doesnt change, plan to re-jet the carb if necessary. Mama Wednesday, June 16 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Who, Friday, June 18 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Tammy, Saturday, June 19 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Frank, 1)
has the bike sat for awhile -- this can be part of the cause. So, with this information, the first thing I would do is revisit the oil type/weight in the bike and change it (as well as the filter). Steve also noted that sometimes jarring the plates by dumping the clutch (i.e. in a modified wheelie) will unlodge a suction situation. Proceed at your own risk on that suggestion! Mama Saturday, June 19 Dear
VTwin Mama, What is a good book for this bike? I would like to learn how to change the spark plugs, filter etc, myself. I have only changed the engine oil up to this point : ) Any direction for me?? Tina Dear
Tina, These manuals will not only guide you in routine stuff, but list necessary tools to have on hand, provide a troubleshooting section, and more. If you're really jazzing to get started, call you local dealer to see if they have a manual in stock. As to your bike, you need to replace the plugs pronto and maybe even clean out the fuel filter (sediment may have settled) and drain the gas tank (water may have accumulated at the bottom or the gas may be more turpentine than usable gas). It's also possible that the carburetor is gunked up (which needs to be cleaned, but if you can get it running, then all you would need is to add a carb cleaner additive to the gas tank and that will do it!). Don't forget to clean the air filter that sits just off the carb (or replace it). Happy wrenching! Mama Monday, June 21 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Birdman (we'll refrain from asking!), Wednesday, June 23 For Mark who wants to drill the baffles to change the exhaust sound: We drilled 4 holes in each of my '99 V-Star mufflers and the sound is really nice. You drill them in the back. The 650 V-Site has complete instructions if you are nervous about doing it right. Also....we repainted the ends of the mufflers so that they were completely black...since the drilling did show. Hope that makes sense. Hugs, Bootygrandma, aka Betty (note from Mama: darn tarnation, I can't find that site again! Send me the email address Betty!) From Betty: It is on Delphi. the address is: http://forums.delphiforums.com/sgmfa. There is a hoard of information to be obtained from this site and the folks that frequent it are really nice. Wednesday, June 30 Dear
VTwin Mama, May 2003: March 2004: June 2004: TO DATE: Dear
No Name, I was immediately drawn to your description of the plugs when they fouled. So I opened up my Clymer manual for my Harley where I knew there was a guide to plugs and the color/condition when things go wrong. The question is, was the white deposit mostly on the insulator (as opposed to the firing tip) and are there small black or gray brown spots with a bluish-burnt appearance of electrodes? If so, the causes are engine overheating, wrong type of fuel, loose spark plugs, too hot a plug or incorrect ignition timing (I'm sure some of these could be immediately ruled out, but others might give pause for reflection). If this description does not match yours, I think you should bring in an example to your local dealer's service department for a closer, look-see. Is it possible that with the re-jetting you were given bum info on what plugs might need to be used -- given the alterations and higher performance? And when was the last time you checked the tightness of your exhaust pipe connection (and/or possible gasket replacement) -- as this will affect performance and add to some of the symptoms you describe. I'm hoping that I'm giving you some food for thought as it most probable that more than one "thing" has resulted in the bike not running. Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, My question is: does anyone else have problems with vibration in the grips and footpegs at the 60 mph range? When I head out on the highway : ) the tank begins to vibrate between 50-55 mph, the handlebars and footpegs at about 60 and the seat at 65. It seems like the motor actually needs another gear to ride smoothly at highway speeds. If anyone else has this problem tell me what you did to fix it - or if you're just putting up with it. My mechanic said it could possibly be that one of the wheels is out of balance. I'm taking it in for them to look at and test drive next week. Hopefully it's just that simple! Otherwise I'll be happy for any input I can get! Thanks a bunch! Jennifer Dear
Jennifer, Wednesday, June 30 Dear
VTwin Mama, Could you maybe give me hint at what it might be? Hopefully I can take a look myself and not have to go to the dealer to have it fixed. Thanks. Regan Dear
Regan, Monday, July 5 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
NMC, Tuesday, July 6 For Jennifer and her 1100 VStar which has some higher speed vibration: I also have a 2004 1100. I have no vibration. Mine runs really smooth. So, I would get that beastie (Mama's word) back to the shop for a look see. Hope that helps. Pat on the back to you Petra, I enjoy visiting this site. Liz in Phoenix (note from Mama: it's so great to get feedback that let's another reader gain more perspective. Thanks for your input!) Wednesday, July 7 Dear
VTwin Mama, I notice that when I'm at a full stop and go to make a right turn, my turns are pretty wide. I have found that speeding up helps me make a tighter turn, and if the bike is in motion my turn is normal. I didn't know if there was advice that may help me make tighter right turns from a stop (besides speeding up and practice). Secondly, I would like help figuring out an overheating problem on a 2001 Honda Shadow Sabre. The bike will overheat when the temps aren't that high (in the 60's) and the bike has been moving (if we're sitting in traffic you can imagine it overheats that much quicker). There isn't any visible leak, but we refill the reservoir after the bike has been parked for a while. I don't know if it makes a difference, but the bike sat outside (although covered) over the winter and so we're thinking it's the seal. Are there any other ideas what could be causing the bike to overheat? Thanks! Lil Me Dear
Lil Me, I'm just not expert enough to help with a cooling system that seems to evaporate coolant, but can suggest two things: this is so important that it's worth a discussion with your local dealer's service department. Also, if you don't have the maintenance/service manual, get one. This is the exact perfect reason to have it, as the entire cooling system would be laid out with all relevant parts called out, along with troubleshooting tips, routine maintenance, etc. Again, the dealer might have the book or check my Reading Sources page for sites that offer them. Mama |
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