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Article on how to measure for a new handlebar from JP Cycle Tech Talk
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2002 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Pam, As to getting the levers closer to your grips, they usually can be moved if the cable length allows. Quite frankly, I've always changed out the main bar for a custom bar that is curved more towards my body so I'm not riding with my arms at a full extension or requiring me to lean forward so that the controls are in correct position. Again, this is subjective but worth exploring whether a different steering bar would work better for you. And the changeover always seem easy enough to me, as I have done all of mine by myself. VTwin Mama sisters -- what do you have to add? Mama Wednesday, April 3 Input for Pam and her question about the correct height of a windshield: Looking through a windshield can distort your vision depending on which brand. I was taught you should be looking over the windshield not through it. Now do as I say not as I do as I am looking through my windshield. My biggest problem with this set up is when I ride in the rain. Rain builds up on the windshield, my helmet visor, and glasses making it hard to see. Now add in the blurring from the spray from the cars and it gets dangerous. With the windshield this high, wind does not blow the rain off my helmet visor. I plan on cutting down my windshield before my next ride to cure these problems. Now be careful not to cut the windshield to far as then you get wind buffeting on your helmet. There is a very fine line here. Riding is much more comfortable with a windshield. We need our creature comforts. Cheryl Well, Sunday was the day to declare...100 mile trip curvy roads up the mountain top, about 5,000 ft. elevation...what a trip! I had to pull over quite a few times (due to the maniacs in the cars)....but my husband was patient with me....going around the corners...ya know they always post a lower mph...boy did I adhere!!! It was a blast....and as for the windshield...I haven't noticed any difference...it's a stock windshield from Honda...and it's too cute! Just perfect size for my VLX600. I just love it! what can I say!! Take care Hope One needs to be able to sit in their saddle the way they ride and see over the top of their windshield. It is very difficult to see through a windshield in the fog and rain. I am talking from experience. Since she is only 5'1", I would suggest a 15" shield. Her best bet though is to discuss it with a good mechanic and parts person at her motorcycle shop. Hondiana I bought my first bike last August - a 1996 Kawasaki Vulcan 800 Classic - and the windshield is too tall. It is just over my eye level and I find myself hunching down to see through it or trying to look over it when the morning dew fogs it up. It is almost riding season here in Maine and one of my to do's is to see if a glass company can cut my shield about 5" shorter. Hopefully, if that's possible, the cost would be cheaper than buying a new one. I wanted to try riding without a shield, but I've been advised against that since I plan to ride long distances.... Sharon Smith in Alton, Maine If you can't find a lower profile on the windshield have it cut so your eye level is just above the rim of the windshield. I am also 5' and my 2000 Fat Boy has the sport windshield kit #58278-95, which my husband had cut, my eye level is just above the rim if I'm sitting up straight. I also put 41/2 inch pull back handle bar risers to get the bars alittle closer for comfort.They both work great for me. So good luck with your new bike. Ride Safe. Julie from LA I too ride a Hugger with a windshield. I had it shaved down by a custom plastic fabrication place. I now can see over it. I still get lots of protection from the wind and a clear view. I use trigger levers from Kuryaken (note from VTwin Mama -- they don't seem to have a website, but if you type this name into a search engine, lots of places that carry the items pop up). I have small hands and arthritis. Heated gloves really help in the cold weather. As Petra (that's VTwin Mama to the uninitiated!) pointed out, your handle bars can be swapped out. I put baby apes on mine (no cable changes necessary). I have my handle bars slightly tilted towards me. I hope this helps! CJ Thanks to everyone who sent in responses about Pam's question on windshield height -- this should go along way to helping her understand the issues more fully. And the consensus is: Don't be looking through a windshield if at all possible. Modify, change out or alter so that you're looking over the darn thing. Mama Dear VTwin Mama, Dear NM, I've changed every set of handlebars on every bike I've ever bought (and that's three bikes!) because they just didn't feel comfortable. And when the shit hits the fan, that bike needs to be in your immediate and complete control, no matter what maneuver you need to make. So, don't feel alone on this! One size does NOT fit all! Mama Thursday, June 20 I agree with changing handlebars, for sure. And I may be off base, but I think if she's "turning the wheels" she may need to check her technique too. She should be "pressing" down on the side she is turning to. It's more of a pivot than a turn. I was having turning problems too and was doing it wrong. Being short legged often equals short armed too! April I too have a 2002 Sporty. Did they make these darn handle bars for apes? It's the next thing I'm going to change about this bike! Tammy in Illinois I have changed handlebars on one of my bikes, but another thought on the subject would be just to get different risers to bring the existing handlebars closer to the rider which is what my husband did to his. Or maybe it only needs a little adjustment up or down from where it already is. Hugs.... Bootygrandma Thursday, June 27 Dear VTwin Mama, Your one reader was correct when she pointed out that you don't "turn the wheel" - you press to turn a motorcycle. In order to have an effective press, you have to have some bend in your elbow when you are at rest on the bike. If you don't, then you will be over-reaching and become unstable. This will cause you to dump the bike, especially at low speed. Don't ride a bike that doesn't fit -- especially in the hand controls department. It is not unusual for women riders to be on tip-toe on many bikes, but there is NO reason for you not to be able to properly reach the controls. Dave Hembroff, Editor, SouthWestRider.com From No Name who turns out to be Cat and how she
resolved this for herself: Dear VTwin Mama, Dear K, Thursday, July 18 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear VTwin Mama, In the MSF class I ran over 2 x 4s with no problem because my feet were situated beneath me and I could rise off the seat. How the heck do I do that on my own bike??? I know the pegs can be adjusted on some bikes but I don't see where I can move them to on my bike and I don't really want to alter the bike that much since I only plan to use it a season or two before upgrading. In the meantime, my butt is SORE from going over bumps and not being able to lift it off the seat enough to let my legs absorb the impact. Please HELP! CJ VTwin Dear CJ, Ok, just kidding. I haven't got an answer for you, but I bet if you went to the Honda Shadow Discussion Forum at http://www.hondashadow.net/ and post your question about moving/adjusting those pegs, you would probably get input lickety split! The site looks very active, the postings are current and they keep the thread of the discussion intact. Try that and we'll see if any specific advice is available from the VTwin Mama sisters about keeping your butt in place when hitting those ickies in the road! Mama Friday, August 2 Dear VTwin Mama, I have a VLX 600, too. Don't know how long your legs are, but I manage to maneuver bumps by pressing with my legs and kinda of using the handlebars to help, so to speak. It's such a quick maneuver that it takes a split second. I keep looking forward, into the distance, and with peripheral vision, judge just when to do this. The other thing you might try, is to adjust the spring, located on the left side, right below the seat, behind the plastic cover, where your tool kit should also be located. There is a tool that is in your kit for this. The spring is very large and it is numbered. Maybe you should tighten the spring or loosen it a bit to absorb the impact better. Just play with different adjustments of the spring to see which works better. Don't have any answers as far as moving foot pegs... haven't seen anywhere to put them myself. Hope this helps! Stacie (note from Mama: every little bit DOES help!) CJ, I understand your problem with the cruiser bikes. I rode a BMW for years and could stand up to relieve bum pressure but with the peg position on my cruiser I cannot stand. I do miss this ability but do like the cruiser configuration while riding. What I do now when I see a bump coming is pull very hard with my arms on the bars and at the same time push up with my legs. It is just enough to get my off the seat for the brief time when the bike goes over the bump. I wouldn't spend much money trying to change the VLX if you are going to change soon to a different bike. And I don't think there is a very easy way to change the foot peg position. Just my guess here. Cheryl (note from Mama: thanks for your insights!) When I took the MSF class on Buells 500, the pegs are situated beneath you also and it was easier to stand on them. I too purchased a Honda Shadow VLX600 with the foot pegs up front; it took getting use to but I can rise up off the sit to avoid bumps. I probably could show you better than I can tell you, since that is not possible, Ill give it a try. Its all about timing; you only need to pull yourself up for an instance between releasing the brake and giving it gas (roll on) pull on your handle bars while pushing up on the pegs. You only need to be a few inch off the set. It would be helpful also if you have strong legs, try doing so leg strengthening exercises, if needed. I usually use my heel to push off the pegs, for some reason using my heel instead of the ball of my foot is better for me. Also, more to consider, height Im 5' 2" so the length from set to pegs are perfect for me, not sure how tall you are, but I have to admit the pegs on the Buell was better for avoiding bump butt. I hope this helps, and good luck, if any other VTwin Mama out there can explain it better please chime in; when I do it, I have never thought about how, I just did it, kind of hard to explain. Be Safe TuG (Thank U God) (note from Mama: isn't that just it -- sometimes we do things when we ride that we just don't consciously think about HOW we do it! It's kind of neat to really analyze these things and get down to the nitty gritty of it all!) Dear VTwin Mama, One, is that I got a "dead arm" from my neck down to my fingertips on the right side because my handlebars don't come far enough back to meet me, and I have to sit a little forward to even be straight armed. I think the reaching did it to me. Had stuff behind me, cuz we were camping, but couldn't use any of it as backrest because of handlebar situation. Dead arm sounds funny, but your arm not only goes to sleep, but there is a strong, dull pain that accompanies it. Was not funny. Had trouble keeping grip on throttle because of it, and was gale force winds we were riding in. See how, it was not so funny? Any suggestions on types of handles bars that would help? Don't want to purchase a new set, only to have same thing happen. Is there a way to test different handlebars before you buy? Secondly, being 5'7", and having an advanced degenerative disease in the large toe joint of my foot, that has now caused changes in my knee also (extremely painful, and makes me walk with a limp all the time), I found that the foot pegs on the VLX were just too darned close for me and caused me a great deal of pain riding for hours on end like that. Yet, I don't see any way to move them forward. I'm just flat out, out of bike! Is there some device or product you can buy that would allow the foot pegs to be moved forward to allow the legs to stretch out a bit more for the VLX? I love my bike in all other aspects, and it would be a shame to have to sell it when I just got used to it, and have to start all over with a different, larger bike, that I'm not sure I'm ready for. Anybody know of anything that would work? Thanks! Stacie Dear Stacie, As to your handlebars, I don't doubt that the stretch to reach contributed to your "dead arm," but I'm also here to tell you that keeping your wrist flexed back to hold the throttle open the whole time is a biggee in numbing the right side. So install a throttle lock pronto. I'm not sure how to size a new handlebar before purchase -- any ideas sisters? I seem to recall telling my dealer I wanted to replace the stock handlebars on my bike, with more "reach" back, but that the width between the two sides was ok, and he knew what to show me. Hmmmm. My only thought on the foot peg is to mount a crash bar at the front of your bike and then "hang" foot pegs off it to give you another leg position. This one you might want to bring directly to your local dealer or independent shop to help you solve. Mama Thursday, August 29 Dear VTwin Mama, Instead of Stacie changing handle bars, perhaps she could check out some other risers that would change the positioning of her handlebars to make them more comfortable for her. A THROTTLE ROCKER might help her in regards to having to hold the position of the throttle grip on a constant basis. As for the foot positions....I agree with mounting additional foot pegs onto the crash bar. This would allow her to change her leg positioning when she needs to. One other idea would be to check into mounting floor boards onto her bike as well. Good Luck Stacie....I hope you find your solutions. Bootygrandma aka Betty (note from Mama: good thoughts here -- thanks for sharing! ) Dear VTwin Mama, I love riding and don't want to quit but I can't seem to find anything that doesn't cost an arm and a leg (even numb ones) to switch. My husband was going to bring my handle bars back to me a little but the new ones don't leave enough clearance of the gas tank to do that. If I get new ones I have to change the clutch and brake cables as they are not long enough for taller bars. The Honda shop told me a new set of foot pegs would cost $150 which I think is crazy. Handle bars like I want are $120. Why is this stuff so high and why does it take so long to get after market parts for new bikes? I am hoping that the parts are interchangeable from 2002. Even a later year would work. Any ideas? Thanks. Shelia Dear Shelia, Dear VTwin Mama, In response to Sheila's problem with her foot pegs and handlebars being too far away from her. I have a 1999 Shadow VLX 600 and while I don't have the foot peg problem because I'm taller, I do have a problem reaching for the handlebars. I have read that a lot of people put Honda Shadow Aero risers on the VLX and it brings the stock handlebars back and up a couple of inches. You don't need to go to the dealer for everything, either, there are plenty of internet companies that sell these items for much cheaper - I've purchased from Dennis Kirk, Bike Bandit, and JC Whitney with good experiences. As for the question on whether parts from a 2002 will fit a 2003, the answer is yes - the VLX is the same from 1999 - up. Robyn (note from Mama -- thank goodness you knew something about all of this!) I myself have short person syndrome (5"4'). It wasn't until after I purchased my 2002 HD Sportster 883 Custom with drag bars and forward controls and put about 300 miles on it did I realize I was too short for my bike! On take off I would slide back on my seat to the point that my toes were barely touching the pegs. I would literally have to grab the handle bars and pull myself forward so I could reach the controls again. The handlebars were another issue. I was leaning so far over to reach the drag bars that my weight was being supported by my arms instead of being able to sit back and support the weight in my bottom and lower back. To get to Shelia's issue, she is going to have to invest some cash to modify the bike or trade it in for a model she can ride. I had to have a seat made for my bike that put me 2 inches closer to the tank, this cost $175 but solved the problem with the forward controls. Next I purchased new handle bars ($45) that brought me up 2 inches and back 2 inches. (I will need longer brake and cable lines but can get by with what I have for now) WOW what a difference. The first time I rode the bike with the new handlebars and seat, I was amazed at the difference. I felt so comfortable and was able to "ride" my bike instead of fight it. Since the modification, I have put 1700 miles on her in 2 months. I "feel" like I "trust" her now, if such a thing exists. That added comfort was a milestone in honing my techniques and that reassurance made me a better rider. I still have a long way to go, and looking forward to the journey. How can you put a price on safety? No Name (note from Mama -- I don't think you can put a price on safety, but the first time shock of seeing aftermarket prices is enough to make any sister turn a whiter shade of pale!) Tuesday, October 1 Dear VTwin Mama, Wednesday, October 9 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Darlene, Tuesday, October 15 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Indiana Red, Monday, October 28 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Martha, To see previous questions and responses on this subject, go to the VTwin Mama Archive section entitled Working on the Bike. Mama Dear VTwin Mama, Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Kim and Richard, First, read this article on their site about to correctly measure your current handlebars so that you can accurately describe how much pullback you have, or how wide your bars are, etc. If you know what you've got, you can define what it is you are looking for. Second, now that you've got that information, sit on your bike and place your hands were you would like them to be. Have someone measure the distance changes between your current handlebars and where you want your hands to be. If might be helpful to draw a sketch for yourself of the old and what you would like to see in the new. Now you can describe the exact amount of rise, pullback, width, etc. that you want. Armed with this information, you can look at aftermarket products with confidence. Larry noted that the JP Cycle catalog has these measurements listed with every offering, so one thing might be to get a free catalog from J&P Cycles so that you can compare what you've got with what is available. Or, you can visit your local dealer with exact measurements that you want and search their offerings accordingly. I hope this helps. Mama Thursday, December 26 Dear VTwin Mama, Next item...handle bars that are too far away (for Richard and Kim)! Consider using different risers. That is what my husband did for me on one of my previous bikes. It was much cheaper than replacing the handlebars. Now...if you still want different handlebars, there are some places that you can go where they have a mock bike and they can put the various handlebars on it so you can see just how they would feel for you. The place I saw this was called Easy Riders, and I understand there are a number of these franchises in different areas. Take care and ride safe. Hugs. Bootygrandma (Betty) Dear Betty, Friday, January 10 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Joan, I called my local Suzuki dealer to answer your questions. They've never heard of an EZ Clutch for the Savage and the only thing they had available (that they thought might work) is another actuator arm that fits the Suzuki dirt bikes which would shorten up the distance for you to pull the lever in (but they're not real sure that there is enough room to install it). The service department said that yes, you could turn up the idle, forcing you to feather the clutch more (meaning you let it out slowly and not all the way instead of fully engaging the clutch right off the bat) to help in turns, but this will burn the clutch out much faster and in addition, if the idle is moved off it's factory preset, could rip out teeth in the clutch assembly 'cause it might start "clunking" in the clutch. He strongly recommended that you don't do this. The handlebar question is one of the most difficult to gauge. Basically, you've got to sit on that bike and place your hands (in the air) exactly where you would like them to be. Then have someone measure the difference in height, rise, spread, etc. that so that you can tell your dealer (or go to an aftermarket parts site) and have the exact measurements that you want. To help you define this exactly, read the article at http://www.j-pcycles.com/shop/HandlebarTechTalk.asp. Joan, along with the fact that you might want to change the gear ratio to help in lower gears, it sounds like this bike is proving to be a lot of work to get it to where you need it to be. You've got bike shows coming up in VA and TN (see the listings at www.motorcycleevents.com, click on Events Calendar and type in your states). A bit to travel probably, but it would give you the opportunity to see all manufacturers and models of bikes in one setting. Shows are coming up in March. Personally, I'd sell that Savage and get something else. But, that's just me! Mama For Joan who is trying to make that Savage 600 work for her: I moved my handle bars with my husband's help. He held the bike up while I sat there and felt when they were comfortable. Then I locked them down. Hope this helps. Linda (note from Mama: yes, sometimes simply changing the angle of the handlebar but loosing its clamp, repositioning, and then retightening works. Thanks for sharing!) Tuesday, January 14 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Joan, Friday, March 7 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Ellie, If you follow the cable from your clutch lever down, note where it ends (this is not always easily visible -- have a flashlight handy). Since most bikes use virtually the same concept here, it most likely has a threaded end held in place against some sort of through-bracket with a locknut. Loosen the locknut and you can turn the cable either way to move that clutch engage/disengage point. Then retighten the locknut and you're on your way. It gets much more complicated if there is no more play left in the threaded end, which means the cable has finally stretched to its maximum ability (yes, cables do stretch over time). Now we're talking replacement. For that you need the manual for your bike. The only place I found a manual for your model (XVS1100 AN/ANC V-Star Classic) was at www.repairmanual.com. Neither Clymers or Haynes (the two big aftermarket manual writers) had anything I could find. Please note that when adjusting the clutch, even small changes can make a BIG difference, so proceed with caution here. If you're not sure what you've "got" -- take a ride over to your local Yamaha dealer and have the Service Department step outside for a quick look-see. Usually someone can spare a moment to check it out for you. Mama Friday, March 14 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Kathy, Saturday, March 29 Dear VTwin Mama, Along with greater pullback, I believe a narrower width will go a long way to reduce shoulder fatigue. My '89 Virago was extremely comfortable with its normal width and decent pullback. I find the 33 inch width on my 1500 Kawasaki Nomad is way too wide for comfort (all my sympathies to Dawn Penning and her saintly dealings with Kawasaki!!) Putting miles on my Nomad is now bittersweet : ( Paula Dear Paula, Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Jake, In their Tech Talk article, they include this picture:
Basically, it's useful for a customer to have the current measurements handy to reference (including center width, width, pullback and rise). When you talk about apehangers, you are asking for an exaggerated rise, but it still has to fit the center width to clamp down properly. Now, it's true -- J&P Cycles historically has catered to the Harley crowd, but that's changing soon. Meanwhile, I took a look in my 2003 Dennis Kirk Metric Bikes catalog and found Flanders and Runroader apehangers (pg. 402). They have rises from 10" to 18" (that ought to do it!), with center widths running form 8", 8.5" and 11". So, now it's up to you to go measure your original handlebar and compare that to the apehangers available, no matter who the supplier is. Did that help? You're going to run into the same questions if you visit a local dealer to look through parts books, so go measure! Mama Monday, April 14 For Jake who wants to change over to apehanger handlebars: He may have to extend the cable lines and there is a difference in the circumference in the handle bars. HD are 1 inch and metric are 7/8 of an inch. So maybe he will have to change the clamp adjustment on the handle bars clamp. LC (note from Mama: thanks for the added information which are important to consider when changing out handlebar configurations.) Monday, April 21 Dear VTwin Mama, My bike has "new" 30mm (1.18") bars, and the windshield apparently can accommodate the standard 7/8" or 1" bars. The curve of the clamp is simply too small to seat around my bars. However, there is a special ridged cone on the clamp that is necessary to have it fit with the rod that supports the windshield itself -- so, I don't think any old clamp I pick up at the hardware store can be made to fit. I did do a regular sort of web search looking for anything to do with adapters for bigger bars, but no luck. I was just hoping someone else had run across this sort of thing. I guess that is what I get for not buying the expensive Moto Guzzi windshield! Givi definitely doesn't make a clamp for my bars, so that route is closed. In the meantime, I have found some clamps at the hardware store which are not ideal but might actually attach the windshield. If they do kind of work, I will keep the windshield in hopes of coming up with an even better solution (maybe you'll run across one for me!). I was hoping that perhaps you or one of my VTwin Mama sisters would have run across a similar problem and found a solution. I would hate to have to send back my whole windshield if Givi doesn't have a larger bar clamp they can send to me. Marina Dear Marina, Also, have you tried to talk this over with your local dealer? They might have some retrofit pieces that could work as well. It's worth a shot! Mama Thursday, May 8 Dear VTwin Mama, I really did have a somewhat tense time that time when I
had worked on the bars. The main issue like I had mentioned was indeed
when I had to deal with the side cover for that clutch cable thing. The
thing that kind of helped me was that at one time a long time ago I had a
boy friend who was into Harley's and was a great mechanic as well and I
used to watch him and well, I just wanted to be close to him as much as I
could. I would guess that that had a lot to do with my trying to
accomplish this task in the first place. Seeing someone handle things like
this before and seeing how easy it could be I just had to try. And besides
that I had most of my money at the time in the Harley's I had and didn't
have much left over to pay the dealer to put it on. So, anyway, I do so hope that someone else out there
takes my example and moves forward with there own mechanical work. I've
also done some engine oil changes and that's been actually a piece of
cake. As I continue to do just small things to my bikes I find it so much
easier to work on them and not be intimidated by the job at hand. Hey, who
said it's a man's world? Not me. Dear
Diane, Top Wednesday, May 21 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear John, If this doesn't help, consider calling the company that you bought the new grips from -- most places have an 800# or online customer service email address. Even if you bought them from a dealer, it's the manufacturer you want to get a hold of. Mama Share Your ThoughtsTop Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Kelly, Top Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Steve, Top Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Jody, Top Wednesday, May 28 For Steve whose boots are proving to be too big for the shifter: We women with smaller feet and/or using thicker boots so we can reach the ground might have a problem with the room for shifting. I had a problem with the boot I was wearing that the shifter was to high and I had to take my foot off the peg to shift. I kept missing shifts. I talked to the service manager about my problem and they bent the shifter down. Now I have new boots and can't get my foot under the shifter so we bent the shifter back up. Try that first. Cheryl (note from Mama: that sounds like a reasonable first step!) Share Your ThoughtsTop Thursday, May 29 For Steve whose boots are too big to shift gears easily: The Honda Shadow 600 was my first bike and I had the exact same problem. I noticed the problem before I purchased the bike and made the adjustment a condition of the sale. The shifter is extremely easy to adjust and can be done in minutes. If you bought your bike new, take it back to the salesman -- he/she can (and should) adjust it for free. If you bought it used, go to your local Honda dealership. It would be a crime to charge for such an easy adjustment. I no longer have that bike or I would consult it to give you detailed instruction on how to make the adjustment yourself (and I'm not even mechanically inclined -- that's how easy it is!). But since I haven't had that bike in over a year, I don't want to give you vague instructions. Good luck! Jennifer (note from Mama: boy, I was making this more complicated than necessary by suggesting a heel/toe shifter replacement. Thanks for sharing your insights!) Steve P. wrote about having problems with not having enough room to shift with some new boots. I have a 1200 Sportster and I bought some new boots and found I had no room to shift. The shift lever is attached to a slotted shaft. Just loosen the set screw and take the shifter off and put back on lower or higher. Sometimes I throw my old boots on and have to adjust the shifter. Only takes a sec. Cindy (note from Mama: well that seems simple enough -- and worth checking out on his model bike -- thanks for sharing.) Friday, May 30 More for Steve whose boots are too big to shift gears easily: Yes this is a common problem. I guess Honda figures we all ride with sneakers. A Honda Shadow 600 was my first bike, and since I have large feet I wear men's boots, and I definitely had a problem with the toe shifter. A heel/toe shifter would be a good solution, but the ones made for the Honda are chintzy, unless Steve really can look at it before he buys it. I started with that solution, but my husband finally just adapted an oil can spout to "raise" the footpeg about a half inch higher. It worked for as long as I had the bike (about 1500 miles), it was my "learning" bike. I have a friend who still has her Shadow 600 but her feet are small so she doesn't have a problem. Tell Steve to ask his dealer if there are any newer solutions out there. By the way, I am now riding (and loving) a 2002 Indian Spirit, I've put on 3000 miles since September. (My husband has a 2002 Indian Chief). And we're off to Americade this week (first time). Keep the sunny side up!! Claire (note from Mama: thanks for sharing your insights and have a great time at your first Americade!) I also had the problem of my HD "Biker"Boots not fitting under the toe shifter. As luck would have it, my heritage has the heel toe shifter. But..... being a pretty new rider (about 1000 miles on a V-Star, and about 500 on the Heritage), lifting your foot up to use the heel shifter is probably not a good idea. My hubby (who has 35 years experience) saw me shifting with my heel and didn't like it. The distance between the toe shifter and the peg is usually adjustable. Just follow the linkage up and there should be an adjustable rod to pull up the shifter. Good luck!! Paula (note from Mama: this sounds like the simplest solution to try first!) Dear VTwin Mama, Dear VmAcK, On the other hand, there could be a problem in the transmission gear set itself, which would require removing the tranny for inspection. This is a big job that costs lots (I've had to have it done) just to take a look (lots of labor) and then a new gear set is not cheap (think almost $1000 depending on make/model of the bike). Or it might be the friction plates have worn out or have burrs on them and require replacing, again, not an easy task unless you have the correct tools and know-how. Most people selling a bike are selling it "as is", so the chance that this guy will change out the clutch cable for you before buying it to see if it solves the problem is remote -- but then you never know unless you ask. He may or may not have enough experience as a mechanic to be able to do this. I guess more importantly is the overall maintenance record on this bike. You might be headed into more headaches if this bike has not been properly maintained over time. Me, myself and I would keep looking for another bike for sale as the season is just starting and bikes are popping up all over the place. Something slightly more expensive with a proven history of maintenance and use would be cheaper in the long run. Mama Share Your ThoughtsTop Tuesday, June 3 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Eric, My suggestion is that you read a very informative article by J&P Cycles on this subject so that you can describe your current handlebar in measurement terms and decide what position you actually want your arms/hands in (again, by virtue of knowing the measurements). Armed (!) with this information, you'll know how much farther away the controls will be and if your current cables can work. If not, a quick call to your local dealer will answer the question whether or not longer cables are available (and how much longer they are). I truly think it's more important to get the right arm position for riding than worrying about whether new cables are needed. Mama Share Your ThoughtsTop Wednesday, June 4 For VmAcK who is considering the purchase of a used bike that the owner said froze up on him: I would ask the owner to take the bike to the nearest shop and find out what's wrong with the bike before you purchase it. Then, you can make a more informed decision as to whether you want to put the money into your "dream" bike or just pay a little more for something that has been taken care of. If the owner refuses, and chooses to sell it as is, I would move on. It may be more trouble than it's worth. Terri in Baltimore (note from Mama: yes, if the owner isn't willing to figure out the problem, why make it your own?!) Share Your ThoughtsTop Thursday, June 5 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Scott, I'm not trying to insult your intelligence, but am a firm believer in the KISS (keep it simple, stupid) principle -- meaning sometimes we overlook the more obvious things when trying to solve something! If it turns out that the brake light is in fact "stuck" on -- read this page about lights and why they might be stuck. It's basically about the brake light switch and how something could have shifted causing the light to stay on all the time! Just scroll down and you'll see the pertinent section. Mama Share Your ThoughtsTop Tuesday, June 17 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Attila (not the Hun, I
presume!), Clutch cables stretch over time, until finally there is no more adjustment capability and you have to replace it. Follow the clutch cable from the lever down, down, down and see if you can see where it attaches to a rod or goes through a metal hole where there is adjustment nut. See it? Now, DON'T DO A GOSH DARN THING until you have acquired a copy of the repair/service manual for your bike! You've got to adjust this bottom connection point correctly in conjunction with the clutch lever adjustment point. So, lickety-split, go to your local dealer and a book. Or click on the link below and get a Haynes copy for $26.95 (1985-2001 model). If you end up determining that a new cable is necessary, then you have the manual to replace it as well! Mama
Top Tuesday, June 24 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear New, Top Tuesday, July 1 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Angela, Top Wednesday, July 2 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
Sim,
Sure,
you can change out cables yourself -- but you need to have the full
service manual to do it properly (tools, fluids, procedures, etc.). Hop
onto my Reading Sources page
for online sites that offer these.
Mama Wednesday, July 16 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Jim, Thursday, July 17 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Vivian, Did you happen to find my Handlebar/Foot Control page? Previous discussion on this subject is posted there, along with a link to a great article from J&P Cycle, an aftermarket parts company, about how to correctly measure your current bar so that you can better define the measurements of what handlebar will really work for you. This is as good a starting place as any. Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Concerned, Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Concerned, I did note back in June that riders with smaller hands should keep their eye out on ASV Inventions. They have developed clutch and brake levers for dirt and motocross bikes that has a pivoting adjustment that allows for complete control of where the lever is positioned (a neat graphic on one of their pages shows it). The company is currently working on developing a universal model for street bikes and noted that this should be ready soon. Still, it will be a little pricey, at $75 each, but comes with a 5 year warranty. Call their toll-free number at 1-877-278-7000 to get an update. Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
LDYBKR1, The only glimmer of hope is a company I've mentioned previously that is working on getting an aftermarket product out there with an adjustable pivot point to the handle that you can position to your own needs. Read my posting from August 21st to learn more. Mama Friday, September 12 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Brenda, Friday, September 12 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Heel/Toe, Monday, September 22 For LDYBKR1 with small hands who hates the size of standard hand controls: Have a local welder heat and bend the clutch and brake levers. The dog leg shape should help to get it closer to the grips, therefore reducing the space between the controls. Good luck, hope this helps! Viki (note from Mama: sounds like a viable solution -- thanks for suggesting it!) Wednesday, October 1 Dear
VTwin Mama, I must say, after reading Barbara's letter I am now more than a little concerned. I have written to AMP for a better explanation of the maintenance she mentioned. I did not know, and they do not state this should be done. Maybe this is part of the problem, it shouldn't be done. I also wanted the company to address whether these things wear out and need replaced. I truly feel I would have to have a hydraulic clutch installed if the AMP was not on my bike or I would not be able to ride. These are quite expensive. I know any mechanical part can fail. I wonder if Barbara felt anything sticking or not quite right in between these two incidents. I hope others write in on this issue so as to determine if this is possibly an isolated incident. I never had any problems clutching the Sportster, I wish the clutch on the Low Rider was the same without the AMP assist on it at all. I also wonder if you have any suggestions regarding the handle bars on my '02 Low Rider. I experience shoulder fatigue. I've been told this goes along with the left arm problem I'm having. I remember reading something on your website or maybe in your Newsletter about this. The Sportster had buck horn bars, again no problem there. I don't want to put them on the Low Rider because I actually like the way the bike handles in curves better with the factory bars. I know they put buck horns on Low Riders until 1999. Thank You. Nancy F. Dear
Nancy, As to your handle bars and the accompanying shoulder fatigue, my guess is the current handlebar configuration (which determines then where the clutch and front brake controls are positioned relative to your body) are forcing you to reach or stretch in some manner that is not natural. If you still have the Sporty, sit on both bikes and pay strict attention to the difference in your arm position. If not, my suggestion is this: sit on your bike and place your hands in an imaginary position that allows your hands and shoulders to be comfortable. Have someone measure the difference between where your hands are now on the current controls and where you prefer them to be. There are several measurements to take, so read up on what the "measurements" that define a handlebar actually mean by reading this informative article from J&P Cycle. With this information, you are now ready to explore your options. Perhaps it's just a matter of repositioning the current handlebar a bit lower or higher. Just loosen the clamping bar that secures your handlebar, reposition, and re-clamp. Or, if you need to get the current handlebar just an inch or so closer to you, then adding a pull back riser is going to do the trick, and is an easy to install solution from many aftermarket product vendors. If the current handlebar sets the controls too far apart for comfort (and maybe also places the controls farther away then you like), then a new handlebar is called for. Again, by taking the measurements, you'll be able to go to your local dealer or search the aftermarket vendors for new handlebars with confidence because the "raw" bars will be defined by those measurement numbers you recorded. The article also talks about the possibility of having to replace the connecting cables to the clutch and brake levers, so keep this in mind. See if your current cables have enough "extra" to them to reach the new control positions and address the issue at the same time. Mama Wednesday, October 22 Dear
VTwin Mama, Now
she can quit worrying about hanging on and just ride the thing. :-) Dear
Dave, Monday, November 3 For Kelly looking for a Rebel 250 heel/toe shifter: Kelly, I bought (and had customized) a '85 in the Philippines; had a custom shifter/boards made. My size-9's -or 12's are a good match for the geometry. This assumes you also have boards, otherwise, you're out; mine won't fit. [They used the original collar-clamp, added flat-bar and welded on some long studs for the rubber-gripper-tube-like- things, topped w/chrome: viola. Heel-Toe.] Art aka honico@hotmail.com (note from Mama: thanks for sharing a custom solution!) Monday, November 3 It's not just seat height that determines whether or not you can touch the ground. The width of the bike and seat are other factors that must be taken into consideration. Anyway...there's one other change I made on my bike that may be useful to other riders of small stature. I replaced the standard clutch and brake levers with a set of Custom Chrome Ergonomic levers. The curvature of the levers make it easier to grab them (I can reach around them with more than just the tips of my fingers) and reduce the amount of effort needed to pull in the clutch and brake. There's less stress on my hands and I can ride longer. As Martha Stewart would say, "it's a good thing!" Pat (note from Mama: thanks for your added comments on this!) |
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