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2009 Tuesday, January 6 Hi Petra, My main problem is how low of a gear to go down to. Should
I not use any brake and go around the turn in second gear? Sometimes
I go clear down to first gear, but then have to high tail it up to get
moving. And I find I might be more steering than leaning. I
know that each turn/curve has a special situation. I just want to
know if I’m on the right track and if there are other pointers you can
give me. Dear Tempe, I personally think it's because from a dead stop we are applying our best coordinated throttle and friction zone use in a steady manner, incorporating both the turn and the speed gain. When we gear down to take a moving turn, situations sometimes call for clicking down to 1st and then we're adding the uncertainty of exactly where in the gear range we are, so we compensate with friction zone but that has a reaction time built in (as nothing is instantaneous ... our brain needs a bit of processing time!). If I recall correctly, Jerry "Motorman" Palladino (of Ride Like A Pro) notes that countersteering/leaning only can happen once we've reached 5mph. So if we've had to slow down into 1st gear to handle the turn for whatever reason, and it falls in that very low speed range, we do end up steering the front wheel vs. leaning our way though the turn. The smoothest corner is done in 2nd gear, slipping the clutch in and out of the friction zone and using the rear brake for a bit of speed control (remembering that front brake isn't really a good idea is slow turns as it tends to pull the bike downward in the turn). If some corners require it done in 1st gear, then so be it and even with all the practice in the world, even the most experienced riders are going to have a jerky moment now and again! – Mama Saturday, August 22 Hi VTwin Mama, Dear Kim, Ok, first, let's look at my incredibly crude drawing of an S-curve (click on it for a larger view). It shows a two-lane road.
A rider should enter a curve from the outside portion of their lane. So, in a right curve, you begin in the left hand portion of your lane and in a left curve, the right hand portion of the lane. This is in green. Notice that the rider now has an entire lane to work with in terms of the lean, meaning that the lean starts and there is road (YOUR portion of it) to work with for any correction. If the rider takes the curve from the inside portion of the lane (in red) there are only two things that can happen. One, you have to lean so far and run the risk of overshooting into the opposing traffic lane because that's where the lean is taking you (with possible peg scrap) and if the rider can't quite make it without going into the opposing lane and you have to straighten the bike up from the lean, you'll catapult across your lane towards the far edge (think cliff). You'll also not be in position to be ready for the next curve. Now, why is it that you see people take any ol' which ever what ever line through a curve and make it? Well, one factor is speed. Enter any curve at 1/2 the posted speed and you can fudge it through. But try to take it at full speed and you'll always be fighting the physics of how bikes lean. Another important factor about speed is that you should enter at a speed you can handle (tighter curve, more lean, more practice/skill) so that you're not braking when in the curve. If you do have to brake a bit, then it's the smallest, lightest tap possible ... but honestly, the front brake will try to straighten the bike from the lean and the back brake can start a rear wheel skid. So braking is a real last minute omigosh ... enter at a speed you can handle on the correct line. I'll also mention that the head and eyes must be looking through the curve. In the green line your head and eyes are naturally looking through the curve correctly. Take the red line and you could fixate on the center line in a left curve (panic, panic) or fixate on the upcoming cliff edge (major panic). Once we fixate it's hard to tear our eyes away from the impending mess. Now, I will note that at first, taking a right curve means you're in the left edge of your lane near the center line, with other vehicles whooshing by you more closely. When I say take the outside position on your lane, I'm not suggesting you hug that very outer edge, but in relative closeness. So, out you go to give this some practice. I guarantee within a few hours you'll really note how much further along your skills are and how smoothly you can handle the twisty mountain roads. – Mama Monday, April 19 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Kathy, Mountain twisties are a challenge and there are several interesting points to note. First, rarely do riders in a group maintain their staggered position in mountain terrain ... it's best to ride single file so that you have the full lane to work with. Next, if ever there was a time to be reminded that your eyes, as well as your head, need to be looking where you want to go, this is it. Not the half point, not down to the ground to the lane markers, not at the driver coming through the opposite way, but through the curve you are taking. You go where you look. Sightseeing to see the vista view in the opposite direction of the upcoming curve is a real recipe for disaster. The key to mastering jitters in mountains is always entering a curve in the correct lane position. When sweeping left, start in the right hand portion of the lane so that you are leaning into your curve and have the whole lane to curve into. A right sweep is then from the left portion of the lane. A moderate curve will have you ending up in the middle of the lane and a deep curve may take the whole lane. The added bonus is that in the correct position you also will have a better view overall of the curve. For some reason I find that going up mountain curves is easier than coming down. Going up you've got great throttle control (in the right gear) and good power control. Going down you've got to gear down before entering each curve so that the need for brakes is minimal, remembering that braking in a curve is almost always a bad thing except for the slightest touch as needed. Never grab the front strongly (it tends to want to right the bike from the learn) and stabbing at the rear can easily put you in a slide (and if you go into a slide and then release that brake, you can high side over the bike). There's no doubt that mountain riding can really take a lot of brain energy and is more physically demanding, so always be well rested and hydrated. Pack small energy snacks. Stop more frequently. Know your limits. One small added note ... definitely check the condition of your tires and be vigilant about checking air pressure frequently. – Mama Wednesday, April 28 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Terri, Congrats on the motorcycle... she's a beauty, but a bigger beastie to start out on .... still, it's not insurmountable. I would like you to take a moment to really study your body position on the XL1200C. So, sit on your bike, off the side stand, and consider your reach to the handlebar controls. Do you feel yourself reaching a bit with your arms and hands? If you're not sure, then center yourself with feet firmly planted, close your eyes, and lift your arms and hands to a natural, comfortable position without regard to where the handlebar and controls are right now When you open your eyes, do you find that the controls are a tad further away than truly comfy? If so, then an inexpensive pullback riser will bring those controls into the right position (just measure the distance of comfort to current to know how much pullback you need, it could be just a matter of an inch). This is a biggee. You'll never master a bike when controls cause you to reach (as a newbie, but even an experienced rider doesn't want to struggle with this ... it's just more work and less overall control). Or, are the controls spread out further from side to side? That's a new handlebar. Now, turn the handlebar fully to one side and then the other. Still comfy? Or are you shifting your torso to accommodate the full bar lock? Pullback riser and/or new handlebar. I simply can't overemphasis the importance of this. On the other hand, it could be that everything is in the right position, reach-wise, but the controls themselves are riding too high or low, causing your wrist to bend up or down when it should be a "flat" (un-flexed) reach. Loosen the handlebar control and get it set right. Stock set-ups aren't always the bees' knees. So to speak. Of course we're not disparaging bees or knees (if bees have knees), but check it out! Now, I want you to do another body awareness exercise. Sit on your bike, off the side stand, and slowly turn the handlebar to the left, mimicking the left turn from a stop that has been challenging you. Pay particular attention to the way your arm/hand/wrist position on the clutch lever begins pulling in and changing position. Your ability to manipulate the clutch and its friction zone aren't quite the same because your wrist isn't in quite the same position. Back to the practice parking lot. Duck walk to learn the intimate details of the friction zone (that point where the clutch engages and disengages and can be slipped in and out of with the tiniest flicker). If you gain total control on a straight duck walk (i.e. you're in a steady walk), then try the duck walk to turn around, paying close attention (again) to how different your arm/hand/wrist position is). You'll get it! I'll add one final thought that hubby can really assist with (I'm guessing and hoping he'll be willing to do it). It's so important that your head remain level and that our head and eyes look through the turn. Hubby can watch as you do turns to see if your head/eyes do something different in a right turn vs. a left turn. He'll be able to see it ... and then you can talk it out and work on it. I'm glad you're taking a riding course soon and you'll learn a lot, but it's going to be on a very different bike set-up. Ride Like a Pro is a DVD that specifically addresses slow turns and I simply can't tell you how many riders, including ... yes, me ... have benefited. While it may not arrive in time before your class, you'll appreciate having this for future practice. Ok. lots for you to check out, but it will be worth your while. Let me know what you find out! – Mama
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