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2005

Tuesday, January 11

Dear VTwin Mama,
Hello. My husband is giving me his new 2004 1200 Custom and the only problem is the clutch is so stiff.. Can you tell me what the difference is on the 883 Low that makes the clutch so much easier to squeeze? Thank you. – No Name

Dear NN,
First off, you're not imagining things! Harley DID put an easier pull clutch lever on the 2004 883 Low, mostly because it's considered a more "in town" bike than a long distance bike (more clutch action used), the bike is more often ridden by smaller people with smaller hands, and is often times a person's first bike. The road tests note that the 1200 Custom's clutch is still "stout." The question is: can the 883's clutch lever be put on the 1200? This I do not know off hand, but a quick call to your local Harley service department should answer that. If it can't, then check with them for correct procedures to possibly loosen up the action a bit on the standard 1200 clutch lever. – Mama

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Wednesday, January 19

For No Name who is wondering why one clutch lever is harder to operate than another:

Dear hard clutch pullers, hey, don't forget to lube the clutch cable, it will make big difference in the feel and pull of your clutch. You should be able to pick up a bottle at any good two wheel store/shop for a few bucks. It simple to use just pull in the clutch and insert the long metal tip and squeeze it in and work the lever a few times - your done!!! – From the Garage (note from Mama: Sometimes I do miss an obvious point, don't I?! Thanks for the reminder!)

Read with interest your many comments on clutch assist products. I have found that good lubrication may be the best solution for this common complaint on bikes that do not have hydraulic slave cylinders on the clutch. I use Super Lube by Permatex. It is a synthetic with Teflon. It comes in a aerosol can. I remove the cable at the lever and add a couple of quick squirts while holding the cable upright then I add two to four drops of Marvel Mystery Oil to the cable and allow time for the oil to run down the cable sheath. I do this every 5,000 miles. I suggest trying this even on a new machine before you alter the factory setup. If you wash the bike often you may need more frequent lubrication. Car washes and power washing is especially hard on clutch cables as well as wheel bearings, electrical components etc. Ride safe and free. With respect – George (note from Mama: thanks for the extended heads-up and learning lesson, or reminder for some of us (me) forgetting things! Where do I put my brain sometimes?!)

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Friday, January 28

Dear VTwin Mama,
Help! After I completed Rider's Edge in 2003, I purchased a 2003 Harley Davidson 883 Hugger. Let me describe myself - I'm a 56 year old, 4' 10," Italian born, slightly over-weight, married for 37 year, fun lover. My husband lowered the Hugger (front springs in the forks and reposition of the rear shocks, plus a "Badlander seat) so I can "flat foot" at a stop (although the battery box digs into my left thigh at a stop). He also installed a "Clutch Ease."

Here's the problem I hope you can help me with. I have small hands and the reach out to the clutch lever is becoming more and more difficult because of arthritic pain. I've heard of ergonomic levers but really don't know what they will do for me. So......how do I get the clutch lever closer to the grip and easier to pull? What can I do to the battery to eliminate the box digging into my left thigh? Thanks for any help you can provide, V/R – Carmela Catherman in Severn, MD

Dear Carmela,
Thanks for sharing some details about who you are and the bike you love! Sounds like the bike is meeting the majority of your needs, so let's see if we can bring more solutions on the current challenges you are facing.

In its essence, the word ergonomic means (according to Webster's) "an applied science concerned with the characteristics of people that need to be considered in designing and arranging things that they use in order that people and things will interact most effectively and safely." 

For motorcycle clutch levers, it usually boils down to an easier pull lever to accommodate those people that don't have the hand strength to pull in a standard clutch. Unfortunately, these designs do not always incorporate a smaller "footprint," meaning that they don't take into account a smaller hand that simply does haven't the same range to reach out and grasp the lever.

To date, the only company I have ever found that offers a clutch lever with an adjustable reach is ASV Inventions. According to the site, "ASV levers are designed to be a universal fit. Our universal clutch levers include a perch so they fit all makes, models and years of motorcycles and ATV's." This would be worth checking out for your bike.

As to the battery box, according to Josh in the service department at my local Harley dealer, the only option is too modify the oil tank and then the battery box can be modified. For earlier models (pre 2003), there appears to be a set of pre-designed solutions, but not for your bike (yet). This may never come to fruition for your year. Josh notes that you could have this customized, but would be in the neighborhood of $2000 because of all the labor involved. This sounds pretty pricey.

I have another thought, but warn that you should call your local dealer's service department to make sure it has no negative impact. How about fabricating a soft cover for the battery case? Perhaps a quilted material that offers a little "squish" factor" instead of the chrome case digging directly into your thigh. Again, you want to make sure that you're not doing something negative (trapping heat?), etc. That's about all I can think of. – Mama

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Wednesday, February 9

Dear VTwin Mama,
Hello, I am a 47 yr old post mastectomy woman with past extreme back injuries but I ride a '87 BMW w/side car. I need an adjustable clutch. The reach is too far. It tires and hurts my chest muscles. Any sites/companies that have this available? My left leg goes numb, I love the *suicide* shifter . . . is this feasible on the BMW?? This is a great site!! thank you for all you do to make this site so wonderful. I plan on being here often b4 taking off on my solo flights across the nation!!

Added note after I inquired whether this letter was about reaching the whole body or the "reach" of having to stretch fingers to grasp the lever: 

Excellent question. using whole body or too wide of reach. While I know its the reach, I actually went out and sat on my bike. It is comfortable and seems easy to access the handle. The problem is with the reach. It isn't necessarily too much reach, it is rather that it is just at the  full reach, each time I extend my fingers and pull back, I feel it right up into the chest. My main chest muscle on the left side has been extended and lifted to the surface due to implant after radical cancer mastectomy. But, I will also go down and try different bars because now I am thinking maybe if they were a little closer.. I also will pay close attention to the way I sit and reach. hmm. I will be having mastectomy again on the right side and I will need to be able to reach throttle and brake. Wow, you're good! Have me thinking in the right direction already!  I will be waiting to hear from you. Thank you sooooo much sister! – Gypsy

Dear Gypsy,
My hat (or is that helmet?!) is off to you on searching for solutions that will allow you to continue to ride following such invasive surgery, especially on potential longer hauls!

There are more "ergonomic" clutch levers available in the marketplace . . . basically meaning that the "pull" is tons easier. Here is a site I found that looks unique to me in terms of its solution (worth checking out). You might also want to check with ASV to see if their levers (brake and clutch) with pivoting set points might work with your bike (allows you to set the lever for small hands). Part of my problem with researching your question is that I'm not as familiar with aftermarket parts houses for BMW (or what OEM parts might be available . . . something to explore with the local dealer). Readers with BMW's . . . please help Gypsy out!

As to the issue of your left leg . . . I just posted a letter from Bess, who asked about conversion solutions that would alter the shifter. I noted a number of sites that address this issue in great detail and even offer one-on-one counseling to determine what could work. Have a read through that and see if you find the sources that will help make a difference to you as well.  – Mama

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Friday, February 11

Hi Petra (VTwin Mama's actual name!),
After putting over 4300 miles on my little Virago last season, I think I'm getting close to wanting to ride something bigger. I had some routine maintenance done on the Virago and it is ready to go the next time the weather warms up a bit. I've also had the VLX out in the driveway to start moving it around and getting used to the weight. Again. When I was riding every weekend, it didn't seem like that much of a stretch. Now it seems a little big and heavy, but then I'm not riding three days on every weekend these days. I had the VLX under power and slowly rode it to the end of the driveway, put it in neutral, turned it around by moving forward and back several times, and then rode it back into the yard. I had to be careful avoid the couple of slushy-icy spots (yep, we still have some snow on the ground) and though I was sort of shaky, it was okay. More awkward than anything, which was as I expected. The slushy spots and snow piles put me off a bit, so I had to be content with moving the beast around manually. Obviously I'll start my season on the smaller bike and hopefully move to the VLX before or around mid season. Ish. I have no concrete time table, only MY comfort with the decision. I promised myself I'd be smart about it this time, which has opened up a can of worms.

Taking the step back to the Virago has taught me more than just developing riding skills and some basic confidence. It has made me realize that the VLX, as it is, does not fit me. I wanted some modifications anyway, like engine guards, saddle bags, and pull back risers. And I think I'll go ahead and get new pipes and have them rejet the carbs if necessary; might as well while I have it in the shop. But I digress. The point is, you don't KNOW what all you need until you have ridden a bike. I'm not saying I wouldn't have had any problems early on, I just think not knowing what I needed added some thorns to the problems I was sprouting.

For instance, over the weekend when I rode the VLX back up the driveway, I went to put it neutral before turning it around manually, and my foot nearly got caught. No wonder I had to twist a bit to shift when I rode it before! And my boots are different now, which made a noticeable difference on the Virago, and now it has enhanced a problem on the VLX. I had already decided to have slightly flatter pegs put on the VLX (I just prefer flat to round), so we'll have the shift lever adjusted after that.

Also, the "hand" reach, I now realize, is too far to be optimal, especially when I have to choke up on the grips to operate the calipers more easily. The bars have already been turned down some, and the calipers have been adjusted up a bit. I had thought about pullback risers, but I am now considering new handlebars. The current bars are stretched out wide (like a wide boy) and something that comes back and in a little, like a low buckhorn, would be better. The dealer we go to has lots of used bikes and I've been researching this. I will certainly be asking for guidance when I go to take the bike in and have all of these things taken care of, but I would like to pose a question to you and your readers in case someone out there has an answer. Dealer service departments have a lot of answers, but it has been our experience that they don't always have ALL the answers. So here goes:

The grips on this bike are HUGE and I have short stubby hands. The VLX takes a 1 inch diameter handlebar, and although 7/8 inch diameter handlebars are readily available, everything attached to the handlebar on this bike is sized to fit a 1 inch bar. I'm wondering if it is possible to get 7/8 inch grips that attach to a 1 inch bar, i.e., grips that are or accommodate 1 inch in diameter where they connect, but the grip part is actually 7/8 inch diameter. Kind of like a downsizing of sorts. I'm betting no such animal exists, but you never know until you ask around. It seems to me that this would adversely affect throttle travel... isn't it supposed to be one-quarter of a turn??? I haven't found anything like this... anyone else know of anything?

You know, it's really starting to grind my gears that everything motorcycle is geared to the size of big-man parts. I feel like Edith Ann in that giant rocking chair! – Linda C.

Dear Linda,
Unfortunately, those big size man parts comprise 90% of the market share, and if you’re the manufacturer, which basket would you want to put your eggs in?! Not Lily Tomlin’s Edith Ann chair! In the words of Gilda Radner’s Roseanne Rosanna-Dana, “It’s always somethin’.”

You’ve come such a long way Linda C., so let’s not stop now! Isn’t it just awful to gain experience just so that you have to use it and find out that something isn’t working for you! Sigh. Education. So highly overrated.

Ok, just kidding. And so your current question boils down to 1/8 inch. Sigh. Nope, there isn’t anything to start at 1” and then taper down. I’d look into replacing the stock clutch lever gizmo. Try the EZ Clutch (oops, that’s Harley only I think) or AMP’s Power Clutch  and even Custom Chrome has ergonomic (this is THE key word) clutch lever systems (it may be just as “wide” in reach, put the pull will be easier) . . . have the local dealer’s parts department look these up. Or check into ASV Inventions . . . they’ve got a lever with adjustable set points for different sized hands. This might work. Happy shopping!

Readers, I've had the privilege of listening to many riders over the years, and in the case of riders like Linda, to "watch" them grow in confidence and ability. I'm so proud of each and everyone of you . . . because just like me, we started from scratch and kept going! Letters that chronicle the struggle that occurs from time to time lets so many others know that they ARE NOT ALONE. This is a key message at the VTwin Mama site. 

Thank you Linda for continuing to explore and share your own journey . . . in this latest letter you have given hope to many others just starting out and to allow more experienced riders to relive their adventure in riding. Trust me, we've all been in your shoes at one time or another. Remember the letter where I counseled, "do not let the dream die inside of you"? You embody that vision . . . and I encourage everyone to keep talking it out. That's how we move forward! – Mama

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Friday, February 11

For Gypsy who is looking for an easier clutch for her BMW:

Check out EZ Clutch for BMWs - I put it on both my R60 (1966) and my R75/6 (1975) and find that they really ease the work required to pull in the clutch. However, I do find that a side car does require more upper body strength to steer.  (I have a Steib LS200 on the R60) Check with the IBMWR.org for more info.  (Internet BMW Riders) – Drew (note from Mama: thank goodness I have readers who know what's going on! Thanks for sharing this!)

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Wednesday, May 18

Hi VTwin Mama,
I just picked up my new Lehman trike 800cc Suzuki C50 Boulevard Tramp. The clutch is new to me, as my old Honda C70 is a semi-automatic. I got the hang of the clutch after a couple hours in the parking lot by the dealer (that was a lesson in humility at first), and when I was comfortable, rode it some 60 miles back home. But boy was my arm/hand sore. The clutch seems so far a reach for me, and holding it down in stop in go city traffic was painful...I often shifted into neutral at red lights to give it a rest. Will this get easier with time? Or is there any way of adjusting the clutch for smaller hands?

Thanks. I'm so glad I found your site. It's given me the confidence I need. Pretty soon, non-riding hubby will be my b*tch on the back...he's so proud of his new helmet! (Gotta love an enlightened man.) – SM Trykster

Dear SMT,
Yahoo to you! Sounds like you're making great strides in your riding. It may be that that clutch lever is not going to be a problem in the future, but there is an adjustment near the lever where the cable comes in that changes the point where the bike clutch engages and disengages. You may wish to try a slight adjustment to bring that engagement point in just a bit (minor turns on the cable, don't over do it). If the whole "pull" is stiff, then hop onto my Clutch Lever page and read through previous postings . . . you'll get the jist that there are more ergonomic (read, easier to pull) levers that are easy to install and even one from a company where the distance of the lever is adjustable for smaller hands (which may or may not fit on your bike). Then it's off to the dealer or aftermarket company to get one! – Mama

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Wednesday, July 13

Dear VTwin Mama,
I seem to have the same problem as all of the other small hand people, reach, grip, etc., but now my problem is finding any or all of these clutch levers for a 2005 XL Sportster 883L. So far I have found none. Can anyone help me this problem. I am also trying to find a hydraulic clutch kit for the same bike. I'm a newbie so all help will be appreciated. – Judi

Dear Judi,
Another reader noted that Harley told her that there is no EZ Clutch for the 2005 model yet. You might want to check into the AMP Power Clutch, which doesn't appear to be dependent on bike year/model. I will add that a sister wrote in about her AMP product failing on her, so you'll want to do the research for yourself. I could not find a hydraulic clutch kit, so readers, if you have knowledge, please share the source! – Mama

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Wednesday, July 20

Dear VTwin Mama,
I wrote to you a month or so ago regarding a Yamaha 535 and clutch levers.

I thought I would write back to you and give you an update. Needed clutch levers for my wife who has short hands. ASV levers were mentioned in the clutch and lever section. However, ASV doesn’t make levers for the Virago and may only make them for dirt bikes. So we’re still looking. I installed Kuryakyn footpegs (ISO Wings) on her bike and it made a world of difference in her comfort. Something I would recommend to anyone. I was surprised on the difference it made. Plus I adjusted the height of the shifter and brake lever which is very easy to do and should have done ages ago. DOH!  

Just a word or two of encouragement for the women who are learning to ride. Keep it up. My wife had never ridden before she took the MSF class and did not make it through the first time. They had a makeup day and she passed. That was 4 years ago and in our mid 40s. She didn’t ride much the first 2 years due to some medical issues, last year she put over 4000 miles on her bike. This year we took a 2400 mile trip the first week of June. And we were loaded down. Camped most of the time. She rode her 535 Virago through all sorts of roads and conditions. And she only ran out of gas twice.  =)   Something we planned for as gas stations are far apart in eastern Oregon. We are planning a similar trip in a few weeks. She took her first solo rides this year too. Short ones, but all by herself.

Dumping your bike is part of the learning curve.  I was in a refresher class for experienced riders and 3 of them dumped their bikes on the course.

If you want to ride, keep at it. RIDE YOUR RIDE. Make your bike your own. Find a club or group to ride with. If some male dishes you guff, dish it back. Motorcycle riding isn’t rocket science or motherhood. But it is a load of fun. Ride Safe, – Kurt

Dear Kurt,
According to the ASV site: "ASV levers are designed to be a universal fit. Our universal clutch levers include a perch so they fit all makes, models and years of motorcycles and ATV's. Our front brake levers have also been engineered to fit a wide variety of bikes."

Still, I can appreciate if you called them, and they couldn't retrofit the Virago.

Most levers described as "ergonomic" fit into two categories: either they are simply easier to pull, without changing the distance between the lever and the handlebar, or the lever is itself curved more in so that the distance is reduced (making it easier to grip for smaller hands).

For the first category are products like the EZ Clutch (by White Brothers) or the Power Clutch (by AMP). In the second category is every aftermarket company offering different levers. This would be easiest to see in product catalogs . . . like the ones from Dennis Kirk or J&P Cycles. These catalogs are free, but make sure you get the metric bike versions.

Or, you could go to the local dealer and have them open up their multitudes of aftermarket catalogs. Sketch out the current lever to handlebar system, noting measurements. Then take a look at what ergonomic choices are available (yes, that's what they call them!).

Thanks for noting the success of changing to the ISO Wings footpegs and your encouragement to other new riders! Many would argue that dumping your bike is NOT part of the learning curve, but me, myself, and I (all three of us!) will simply say that most people I have ever ridden with have had their bike "take a nap" at some point or another, and not always in the early learning stages, but later on in the experience level as well. – Mama

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Wednesday, August 17

From Judi who was searching for a clutch with an easier pull:

Thought I would write an up-date on my clutch problem for my '05 Sportster 883L that has a stiff pull. We changed out the original clutch and installed the MRC Clutch which reduces the clutch lever effort by 50% and does it ever. Hugh difference! Hope this will help others like me with short fingers and little grip. – Judi from Lake of the Ozark (note from Mama: glad you found a solution and shared it! This is one I've not heard of . . . .couldn't find a website, but the contact info is: MRC Clutch Assist, Phaedrus Cycle, 1992 Antelope Hill Ct., Henderson, NV 89012 Tel. 702-269-7322) (10/25/05 update note: Phaedrus now has a website for their MRC Clutch http://www.mrcclutch.com

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Wednesday, September 28

Dear VTwin Mama,
Thanks for your continued great work on behalf of all us ladies. (you are welcome!) Just wanted to let you know a solution to a problem I came across with my 2000 1200 Sportster. It had a very stiff clutch which required 2 hands to pull in. Got the Mueller easy clutch installed ( goes in the transmission) and still no change . . . then did ergonomic levers and a new Barnett clutch cable which made it possible for me to handle it although painful after several stop lights. So added the AMP Power Clutch to the clutch lever (external) and now can pull in with 2 fingers. WOW, great products available out there for those of us with short fingers. – Dorathy Biddinger

Dear Dorathy,
Thanks for chronicling the products you tried in an effort to relieve your clutch lever operation challenges. Reader's can find previous postings on the subject on my Working on the Bike: Clutch Lever pages. – Mama

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Monday, October 10

For anyone searching for a hydraulic clutch solution for Sportsters (1986-2006) for easier clutch pull:

JP Cycles has that Magura "main street" hydraulic clutch. –  DF (note from Mama: thanks big time for pointing this out!)

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Friday, October 21

Dear VTwin Mama,
About easier clutches for Harleys: I work in the Parts Department at the Harley-Davidson dealer in Elkhart, Indiana.  Harley just came out with a new easy clutch device that goes in the transmission.  All of the 2006 bikes come with it. There is also an EZ Boy Clutch device which runs only $21.95 which works great.  I have one in my Softail, and we have installed many of them here.  Most Harley dealers should have them. Both are inexpensive ways of taking care of the clutch issue. – Diane in Michigan

Dear Diane,
How wonderful that in 2006 Harley is addressing the issue throughout it's lineup of models. I have seen the White Brothers version of this tranny insert and on one site they note that all Harleys from 1987 up can be retrofitted (here's the site with a picture to help you visualize what's up!). Thanks for sharing! – Mama

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Tuesday, October 25

Dear VTwin Mama,
We have a website now for information about the MRC Clutch. http://www.mrcclutch.com. – Holly

Dear Holly,
Yummy! Readers, this is the solution from Phaedrus Cycle in NV for 1987 and up Big Twin Harleys and 1994 and up Sportys and Buells. – Mama

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Monday, December 5

Dear VTwin Mama,
I have small hands and I can't ease the clutch lever out on my Honda Rebel without it jumping and getting away from me. I also break nails . . . which annoys me . . . any advice on a clutch lever adjustment? – Velocettebabe

Dear Velocettebabe,
The point of the clutch lever is of course to engage and disengage the clutch correctly and the cable will stretch over time, thus creating an engagement/disengagement point which is further out as you release the lever (as opposed to the engage/disengage point being at the beginning of the action of letting out the lever). I'm guessing your engage/disengage point is at the far end of the lever travel to create the situation where you feel you can't ease it out and it "jumps."

Look where the clutch cable goes into the the clutch lever . . . there you will see a locknut which can be loosened and the cable backed out a bit, then retighten the locknut. Check your engage/disengage point now. If you have to back this out more than half of the adjustment possibility, turn that back in, and look down the cable where you will probably find another adjustment point. Make sure you do only small turns, tighten, try it, etc. If there is no more adjustment to the cable possible it's time to replace the clutch cable. 

I have no idea on how to advise you about breaking nails . . . if they are that long and interfere with your hand wrapping around the handlebar to correctly activate the controls, it may be time to  rethink your nail length. Readers, am I getting this wrong?! – Mama

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Tuesday, December 6

For Velocettebabe who is trying to ease her clutch lever action:

For those with small hands and short fingers - always place your hands on the grips as close to the inside as possible as that makes the reach a little less.(it also makes it easier to reach your turn signal, light button & horn button etc.) Also, just in case you go down -that protects your hands from the pavement by  letting the end caps on the handlebars hit ground first and absorb the impact. P.S. you could also try searching for a set of 10% reduction clutch and brake levers for your bike-usually cost about $20 on ebay. –  Dorathy (note from Mama: good pointers here! I'll simply add that previous postings on the discussion of more ergonomic and physically smaller clutch levers are on my Working on the Bike: Clutch Lever pages.)

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