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2005 Dear
VTwin Mama, I am now customizing my bike, and am considering purchasing ape hangers (I love the old school, hard core look they offer). I recently went to a bike shop where they allowed me to place them on top of my stock bars, so that I could get a better understanding of how they would feel. My concern is because I am still a "newbee" that I will have a difficult time turning. Also, I realize that I could have some numbing in my hands and arms because of circulation issues. Can anyone give me advice (or opinion) about ape hangers, so that I can decide if this is something I would like to purchase? – Caressa Dear
Caressa, I suspect that part of the reason is that you're not significantly shifting your body's center of gravity (COG), which is generally at your hips, from the bike's COG, which is generally where the engine is. And really, if you're using proper countersteering techniques (you don't "steer" a bike through a curve, you use your COG and your palm pushes on that side of the handlebar for the direction you wish to go in), it's just readjusting to the different height of where your hands are. Since you are newer to riding, here is an interesting article from a high performance riding school on the subject of countersteering and other things you should be considering. Still, I admit, that I did not get the opportunity for a longer haul to see how I would feel with my arms in the air for hours on end! I tried searching the Internet for articles on the realities of riding with ape hangers, but couldn't find anything. What I did see was a blurb that you DO want to be careful not to get ape hangers that force you to stretch to reach . . . you want a comfortable hand placement without having to shift your whole body. So, definitely you should check that you can pull in and release both the clutch and brake lever without having to struggle with it. Readers with first-hand ape hanger experience should chime in now! Or, maybe you have a riding friend who has this modification and you could ask more about it and share it here!– Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Al, Wednesday, February 9 For Al who is learning to use the front brake without rolling on the throttle: I just want to let you know your not alone. I do that to. I got my bike in October 2004. I don't have many miles on my bike yet, so I'm still a newbie. I think it's just going to take practice. I try to roll my hand a little forward when I go for the brake so I don't give it gas at the same time when I'm braking. Good luck. – Vivian, V-Star Rider (note from Mama: yes, practice is usually the key!) Thursday, February 10 More for Al who is learning to use the front brake without rolling on the throttle: The instructors at the MSF course were really good about this subject as well – keep your wrists down! That always makes you have to roll the throttle off in order to reach the brake lever. The one thing I have found negative about keeping my wrists down is that I may tend to have a ‘death grip’ on the grips, or my wrists get a little stiff from that position. Found an article that addressed that however – funny as it seems, gripping with your knees on the tank makes you relax your hands and arms. It works! I find that I can relax my hands enough to adjust position as needed to prevent any tiredness in my hands, fingers and arms, even on the longest rides! Of course, gripping with my knees only made sense to me – I used to ride dressage horses. – Amy in Washington. (note from Mama: now that's an interesting point about the knee grip relaxing your hands . . . but I do find that when I want a good sense of control, I do bring my knees in and hug the tank rather than letting them hang out! Thanks for sharing this!) Friday, February 11 From Al who is thankful for input on the front brake/throttle roll issue: Thanks Mama and thanks to Amy in Washington and Vivian - V Star Rider for the tips on "Learning to use the front brake without rolling on the throttle." By the way, in my original message I mentioned that I "failed" the skills part of the MSF test(s). However, two weeks later I signed up for next available running of that class/course, which occurs in May '05. I plan to buy a bike and get some practice before then. Thanks again. – Al (note from Mama: you are welcome. I just posted a motorcycle skills test practice guide page site I found that might help you work through some of the skill test things.) Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
M., Friday, February 18 For M. Wright on rolling the throttle while using the front brake: Absolutely Practice Practice. I have small hands and this was a problem for me, you'll get use to it, I mean breaking without gassing it. When I took the MSF course, my coach, a woman with small hands too, told me this. "The one important thing to remember is just because the engine revs is keep on the brake and clutch till you stop or can relax your hand off the throttle. What helped me was grabbing one finger at a time on the break lever (index, middle, ring, pinky) in a rolling motion instead of using all four a once. It's just as quick." Hope this might help. – Jennifer (note from Mama: every bit of coaching helps! One message might not get the point across, but another will . . . so, let's keep sharing! ) Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Wendy, Ok, let's get down to the nitty gritty. In order to come to a full stop and have both feet planted on the ground, I'm thinking you must have the front brake engaged. Could it be that you're envisioning that you need to "get up" and lean forward to make the bike go again? Perhaps an old habit from riding a bicycle (where one rises slightly in order to put that one foot on a pedal and push down)? I think a little practice away from traffic and other distractions will help. This could even be done on your side street (if you live on one). Ok, you're at a stop, feet on the ground, and you're ready to go. Keep your butt in the seat, shift into first (if you're in neutral), release the front brake, slowly engage the clutch and off you go. That seems simple enough, but maybe you would benefit from some visualization practice. Sit at your kitchen chair, close your eyes, and envision the correct sequence (without the butt lift) and keep doing this until you're smiling with glee that you've got it down pat (on the kitchen chair)! Now, with the bike in an empty parking lot (or even your side street), so the same. Practice until you've overcome the need to rise and lean. In all of this, ask yourself why you feel the need to rise up. My guess is if you examine this just a bit more, you'll figure out where this inclination came from. Then practice, practice, practice and you'll have it! – Mama For Wendy who is learning to pull away from stops correctly: Wendy, it’s the both feet on the ground problem. I had similar issues that involved too much usage of the front brake causing me to drop two different bikes at different times (both mine, at least – guess I had it in my mind that I could hold up and control a 400 – 800# bike with my feet & legs!). I have to continually remind myself to keep that right foot on the pedal / floorboard and only put down my left foot – keeping control of that back brake! I keep it there even after I have stopped now. Seems to me if you practice keeping that right foot up you won’t be able to (or want to) stand up. – Amy (note from Mama: there's nothing like first-hand experience to offer a method that works! Thanks for sharing!) Monday, February 28 More for Wendy who is learning to pull away from stops correctly: I'm not sure why she's leaving the seat either. But, she mentioned an incline... when I'm on an incline I do one or two things...1) slightly lean the bike to the left foot so I can brake with the right foot and slowly accelerate up the incline or 2) I will stand slightly and lean & hold the bike with my legs to slowly accelerate up an incline. I'm doing this on a VTX1300. I also wonder if she's real comfortable with the "friction zone" when pulling off from a start. The clutch-gas-brake thing is a lot of practice in all kinds of situations. Inclines and hills always make me concentrate a little harder.. I definitely don't want to drop in the middle of the road! – Sandy Reece in Winston Salem, NC (note from Mama: you are right . . . the friction zone takes practice and can be learned on a flat surface . . . truly one of the important lessons to master as it's useful in so many instances!) Now, a note from Wendy: Saturday, March 5 Dear
VTwin Mama, The other time is the issue. I am in Wyoming and there IS a lot of ice here. It seems a lump of it just won't melt in front of my garage. No ice to speak of on the road etc right now.... just a nasty lump of it in front of where I park my bike in the garage. Now I'm not a little girl -- I CAN pick up the 600lb bike even BUT I can't seem to get it over these lumps and such to park it. I dropped the bike trying to push it from the front out of the garage. I have had almost as much trouble pushing it back in. I want to just sit on it and shove it back as I see other riders do but if there is the tiniest anything in the way it just isn't going to happen. Any ideas? – Parking Troubles Dear
Parking Troubles, Tuesday, March 15 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Bonni, Getting used to forward controls does take a bit of practice also, but only in terms of getting your legs/feet to relearn where they need to be when you need them! A bit of running around should get the job done. You'll need to discuss options with the dealer if you find you would need to pull those controls back a bit . . . some bikes have relocation kits, but many don't. – Mama Tuesday, May 10 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Anon, Ok, now let's take a look at question #1 . . . in this one I appealed to HammerLady of the ShinnySideUp chat forum, and a MSF instructor herself: I had to read this question 3 times before I could separate the ‘mixed metaphors’. Lets see if I can clear this one up. First, I do coach my students that when braking, using all four fingers is ‘Best Technique’. Four fingers allow maximum control during application. In addition, safety reasons dictate that a new rider should NOT cover the front brake while riding due to the likelihood of a new rider confusing the clutch with the front brake. Muscle memory has not been established yet as to which hand to ‘close’ when power needs to be removed. Thus ‘Cover the clutch not the front brake’ when learning to prevent a mix-up of the two controls. Another reason is a new rider also needs to learn throttle control. Best practice is all four fingers around the throttle with a wrist down knuckles up position. Using the throttle this way also ‘forces’ a student to ‘roll off’ the throttle prior to using the front brake. I have no clue where the author of the article in “Bad to the Bone” came up with that 5 points would be assessed if only two fingers are used. I’ve never heard of that one before nor have I ever docked points for using only two fingers or one toe on the rear brake for that matter. As long as both brakes are used, that’s what counts. Direct from the MSF Exam cards:
Nothing is ever said about two fingers. Now, to address what everyone is saying about ‘covering the front brake while riding’. Add the MSF to those saying it’s a good idea. Again, let me quote, from a White Horse publication The
MSF’s Guide To Motorcycling Excellence. Skills, Knowledge and Strategies
for Riding Right.: “To be able to achieve maximum braking performance in real traffic situations, riders should:
Yes, I do encourage more experienced riders that when they see a potential hazardous situation (heavy traffic intersections, on-coming cars with left turn signals, etc.) that it’s a good plan to cover the all the controls and remove reaction distance until hazard has passed. Two fingers are better than nothing. Four fingers are better than two. Now with all that long winded explanation done, I’ll
address the question itself: “why is this a "bad habit" that should be
broken?” I believe the “bad habit” issue lies with
relying on only two fingers in a maximum braking situation.
With the front brake providing 70% of your stopping power, why
settle for just half (two finger) control?
The saying that “Practice makes perfect” is not quite right.
Practice makes permanent. So whatever you practice is going to be what
your reaction will be as a reflex. I
personally prefer full (all four) control to be the reflex my hand has
when I’m faced with an emergency braking situation.
I’m not sure if that clears up any of this conflicting
information. But it may explain some of theories behind what goes on. And
there you have it Anon! Hi Mama, I have a question about shifting gears, as this is my first bike with 5 gears. (My Honda C70 had only 3). I understand that it isn't good for the bike if I ride in too low a gear (overreving), but is there any harm to the bike from being in too high a gear, for example when slowing from about 50 down to say 30 mph for traffic but still in motion? I am having a bit of trouble hearing the engine differences when in 3rd, 4th and 5th (I wear a full helmet, and the wind at higher speeds is new to me). Btw, this trike is the only factory-direct trike I believe...Suzuki & Lehman teamed up and it retains it's full year warranty on the bike, in addition to the 2 year trike warranty. Normally trike kits void the bike warranty. Also, I insured it through Foremost because they offer 2 year full-replacement coverage for collision/theft. Anyway, this is some serious fun, I'll tell you. It's very empowering to tame such a beast and especially to be able to pull away from traffic! Thanks for a cool site, – SM Trykster Dear
SM Trykster, I don't believe there is any harm in staying in a higher gear while slowing down significantly, but have you noticed that when you go to hit the gas again that the bike doesn't have as quick a response to speeding up again? It's a more sluggish response. That's because you're not in the optimal gear to get going again and the power transfer from the clutch to the transmission's mainshaft is not developing the correct torque for quick response. As you're having so much fun learning, why not go out to a low traffic area/time and experiment. Get up to your fifty mph and then stay in that gear, slow down to 30mph, and then hit your throttle. Note the feeling of how your bike powers up again. Now, try that same thing, but before you throttle up again from the slower speed, click down one gear and then throttle up. Do you note a difference in your bike's response?! Not to worry, before you know it, you're continual practice and riding will have you shifting up and down to keep that bike in it's best torque range (not over revving, but not sluggish revving either!). That, dearest sister, is part of the learning experience!– Mama For SM Trykster who is learning to downshift properly with five gears: I'm with you have had my "Tramp" on the road for about 2 weeks now and having a blast. My dealer here in San Diego Area (San Marcos) by the name of Rix Eden At Dusk to Dawn Motorcycles (a little plug there) said that to remember that it's just like shifting a car so you would not want to be in too high of a rev for too long. On another note I had written to you Mama about a problem I had with my clutch burning out after about 4 miles . . . well it turned out that it was my fault as I did not understand how a motorcycle clutch worked. I had started out in 3rd gear on a very steep incline and thought I was in first and was also riding the clutch during my starts and stops. So it just goes to show you knowledge is power. In the wind, – tinyski (note from Mama: thanks for saying hi to SM and sharing your own mistake! I'm glad you and the dealer figured out what happened, and while it cost some money to right the wrong, you learned a valuable lesson and that's sometimes how it goes.) Saturday, May 28 For tinyski who noted how she burned out her clutch by using it incorrectly: Regarding tinyski's problem of riding the clutch during starts and stops... Tell me more! I'm afraid I might be doing this. I've been easing the clutch out at starts and I'm still pretty nervous about killing the engine in city traffic, so I tend to not let it out completely till I get into second gear. I'm also reaching for it on stops and I've been using the engine to slow as I shift down rather than the brakes, which means I'm on the clutch quite a bit stopping. What're the mechanics of a clutch wearing out, btw? Also, when shifting gears, is it important to completely close (open?) the clutch to the hand grip or is a 1/2 or 3/4 grab ok? Btw, my new Mustang seat has arrived for my Tramp Trike, and will be installed this weekend. Hubby had his first numb butt experience yesterday, so it will be a welcome change. Still would like to have a big saddle designed for him but he insists the 12-in. Mustang will be ok. Enjoy the Tramp, tinyski! – SM Trykster (note from Mama: tinyski noted she was doing steep incline starts in 3rd gear instead of 1st . . . thus causing the clutch burnout. Yes, the more you use the clutch, the quicker it will wear. When you pull in the clutch lever, of course you are disengaging the clutch from the drive system and letting it out is what then engages the clutch so that power can be transferred to make the bike go! Notice that your clutch lever engages/disengages the system somewhere in the midpoint of the pull of the lever. When you don't fully let out the clutch lever you may not be fully engaging the clutch to the drive system, causing it to slip because the mating slots and tabs to the drive plates are not aligned. This is called slipping the clutch and is used to keep the bike moving forward at very low speeds, think 0-3 mph, and riders use it when large riding formations are inching forward and they don't want to put their foot down all the time with the bike at a full stop. They let out the clutch lever just enough to get a small amount of power than pull it back in again just a small amount to stop moving forward, then slip it back out, etc.. Still, the consequences of wear are there and should be used judiciously! With practice will come your confidence to fully let out the clutch in first and hopefully you're fully pulling in the clutch lever when you shift to 2nd! Yes, you can downshift to bleed off speed, but really, it's important to learn how to use both the front and back brake in tandem along with downshifting for maximum control and handling. ) Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Sylvia, I suggest you take that bike to a bigger practice parking lot than your carport . . . you need room to breath without obstructions and distractions (like a school parking lot on weekends). If necessary, have a family member or friend ride that bike there. Set up a "stop" cone at a convenient place. Then practice. Start farther down (straight line) and go into first gear and practice a controlled stop to the cone. Try with just the front brake, then try with the combo. Remember, light application of the brakes . . . you never want to "jam" on either brake, and never, ever, ever jam on the rear brake. That will put your bike into a skid that is truly nasty. Then try second gear. Practice, practice, practice. This is the only way you'll get the coordination of braking and down shifting your gears together to find the control you're looking for. By going to a safe practice zone, you eliminate traffic signs and other "stuff" to consider. Make sure you bring water, take frequent breaks, have somehow encourage your small steps towards learning the skill! You CAN DO IT! – Mama Sunday, June 5 For Sylvia who is learning to coordinate the use of her brakes: I too have learned some important lessons out there on the road and as well, took the Safety Course. Somehow the instructor on the course knew I was a cyclist and commented on how much I used my front brake on the motorcycle - I guess you bring what you know. He encouraged me to use my back brake instead. So . . . for the duration of the course I used my back brake only, as instructed. Then, after passing the course and moving up to a 750 Virago, I found myself in a situation on a REAL road where I had to brake NOW (missed my turn) and applied the back brake HARD….well…now I know what "fishtailing" means. As soon as that swerving feeling started to happen I released all and used my front brake. Major difference. Now, because of experience, I use the both. Mostly the front for time to time slowing down, but both brakes for full stops. Hope this helps. – Kathy (note from Mama: there is no more sickening feeling than a self-induced fishtail/rear tire slide . . . it's a hard lesson learned, but boy, it sure sticks with you! Yes, front brake for small slow down needs and both brakes together for faster, more complete stops, but still, no jamming on either if at all possible.) Monday, June 6 Hello
VTwin Mama, But, I have a situation I would like to convey: I purchased my Harley independently 2 months ago, which included a set of forward controls - really bright and shiny chrome things. My husband was ooohing and aaahing like crazy about these things. I was comfortable with my mid controls but he talked me into having the forward controls installed because my custom Super Glide would look so much better . . . blah, blah, blah . . . and so it happened. Forward controls installed. LADIES, TAKE NOTE: (Actually, everyone, take note!!!) Choosing to have forward controls can be a nightmare. How FORWARD are these controls? How is your seat in relation to these controls AND are you comfortable having your leg straight out in front of you, hitting the air whatchamacallit thingie? I spent money $$$ I can't tell you, to buy these fancy forward controls and then to have them installed (not knowing any of these obstacles) only to have to pay double $$$ to undo the process and have my mid controls re-installed. The shop that did it (totally male staffed) said "tell her to get used to them!!!" The "bucket" of the seat was too far back and the controls were too far forward. The combination was ineffective for a 5 foot 9 inch "me" but perfect for my 6 foot husband who absolutely loves them as did every other guy that saw those beauts…but it's not me and it doesn't work and I'm the one riding it. Having those controls threw me off balance, too. I had to hoist myself forward on the seat to reach my rear brake as well as shift. How scary is that? Turning onto a street was quite the experience, so when my husband of 27 years saw me teetering on a turn with controls I can't reach, he took the liberty to tell me afterwards, I am not ready to ride a Harley, Ladies, we do have a challenge on our hands! – Kathy Dear
Kathy, Dear
VTwin Mama, 1. My right wrist is starting to feel sore and achy (I did have carpal tunnel but had surgery many years ago) - is that typical for the throttle hand? Or am I just doing that death grip (fingers don't feel like it though)? If this is the usual thing - are there any solutions? 2. Is it wimpy to wear earplugs? I finally got enough courage and confidence to wear a shorty helmet (been using either full or 3/4 till now). This was necessitated due to riding in some 90 degree weather. However, this leaves my ears 'unprotected'. I have upgraded my pipes and my husband also has his upgraded. They are louder than stock but not off the scale. I love my louder pipes and contrary to what others have said, they have been lifesavers in a few instances. But, between the wind and the pipes, my ears are starting to bother me. So, back to my question, earplugs o.k. or will I be laughed off the road? – Annie in Bellevue, WA Dear
Annie, For $9.95 you can get the Throttle Rocker . . . "a device that wraps around the throttle grip of your motorcycle. The end protrudes out from the grip to form a contoured portion that comfortably fits the heel and palm of your hand. Using the heel of your hand, you apply downward pressure on the Throttle Rocker and the throttle grip rotates. Throttle Rocker is contoured to comfortably fit the palm and heel of your hand so that those long rides are more enjoyable." You can get this at many sources, but here's the page from ScootWorks. Earplugs are perfectly normal! Remember, what ever makes you comfortable while being safe is always normal! There are pluses (increased comfort that you seek) and minuses (some people note that you may be cutting down your ability to hear necessary sounds that clue you into the ride) . . . but ultimately it's up to you. Happy riding! – Mama Monday, June 20 For Annie who is experiencing a sore throttle wrist: Your response to Annie in Bellevue is right on! The Throttle Rocker is an awesome accessory! When I got my triked HD 883, friends showed up with all sorts of new bike gifts, and one was a Throttle Rocker. I waited until I was familiar with how the throttle responded, about a month of riding, then put the Throttle Rocker on. Wow! I love that thing! It was really nice when we rode about 1200 miles over the three days of Memorial Day Weekend. Happy riding, – Trike Rider (note from Mama: thanks for sharing how this making a difference in your riding experience!) Thursday, July 7 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Kathy, Of course part of the whole thing is to properly gauge you initial "set up" to back in. Take a look at this previous posting and a diagram I drew to help illustrate how I do it to avoid having to drastically turn the wheel in order to back up. It DOES make a difference! – Mama Thursday, July 14 Dear
VTwin Mama, I took the rider education class in May (at age 51) and I am so happy I did. I never rode a bike before that class, I only rode on the back of one. The problem I have is that I seem to give the bike too much throttle or I want to roll off the throttle and instead I roll on. I have to say I am very tense when I am on the bike . . . so much to remember and do. Riding on the back of a bike enjoying the scenery is so relaxing and the person I rode with made riding look so easy. Well, it isn't easy, but I am determined to ride and ride as safely as possible. I was making a left hand turn last week and almost ran into the back of my own parked car, but not before I did a very unintentional wheelie and barely missed a tree. I panicked and never took my hand off the throttle. I finally got control of the bike only after passing several more houses. I scared myself half to death and it took me a week to get back on the bike. I have been riding up and down my street since May and I am getting bored, but I can't leave my neighborhood until I am in control. I ride a 1995 Vulcan 500 and I am basically teaching myself, so any advice you can give me would be appreciated!! Cheers, – Debi Dear
Debi, One thing that is ultimately important to remember is that you can ALWAYS "remove" the bike's "power" by pulling in the clutch lever and completely disengaging the power of the engine from the drive components. With the clutch lever pulled in, you can rev that throttle to high heaven as much as you want, and you won't go anywhere. So, if you over throttle and start going out of control, just pull the clutch lever in, get stopped, and then deal with things. Try it. Sit on your bike in neutral, start the bike, pull in the clutch lever and then rev the throttle. See, you're not going anywhere. Now, use this time to get a feel for the throttle. Look at how your hand is sitting in relation to the throttle and handlebar. Is your wrist cocked up? In a panic situation, the most natural thing is that your wrist is going to want to roll down, which of course will force your hand to roll back and thus give you more throttle exactly when you don't want it. Instead, work on positioning your wrist so it is a flat line-up. Now if the wrist tries to roll down, it's got a lot less room to "travel." If you find that now the front brake lever is rotated too far "over the edge" to use easily, then loosen the screws that bolt the brake lever onto the handlebar, rotate it, and re-clamp. I would also suggest that you find someone who can take your bike to a local empty parking lot for practice sessions. You have way too many distractions and obstacles in your neighborhood. Church lots during the week and school lots on weekends are some choices. Or perhaps a local business has closed its doors . . . so that would be empty. Also remember, you go where your head and eyes are looking. If you fixate on the object you think you're going to crash into, you will. Instead, look where you want to go. It's a big help and it's true! Now, out you go to look at your wrist position and call someone to get that bike to a safe practice zone. If you could use a mentor, why not contact the local chapter of a women's riding organization, or look at my site's Let's Ride list to see if there is a VTwin Mama sister in your area. You'll feel better if you have a local woman rider to talk things out with!– Mama Friday, August 26 Dear
VTwin Mama, As excited and encouraged as I WAS about your emails, my husband was not. I read every single word in the letters from you. I read other things I had printed out from your site to him. He did not agree (he always thinks he knows better then me, and usually he doesn't). Anyway, I dug in my heels, I was not getting back on that big bike until my ribs had healed, then took my MSF Class, and he got me something smaller for awhile!! WELL, by Aug. 13th I had found and bought a 250 Honda Rebel and had no trouble riding it( I was not afraid of it one single second), on the 20th and 21st I took my MSF and passed without trouble. YEA!!!!! I have put on about 250 miles on the Rebel!!! I love riding and seem to not have any trouble handling the littler bike. Now my problem, I am just way too big for that Rebel. I am 5' 11" and 220lbs. That poor little bike takes a toll pulling around my butt!!! It takes forever to get it up to 60mph. I have got to get on the Volusia. I have ridden it around in the yard a couple of times. I haven't dropped it but boy does it feel very big, heavy, and the handlebars are so far out that I feel like I don't have much control. I have been wanting to sell it and go back down to something like a 600 Shadow, but in the state of Minnesota it takes 3-4 months for a title to be processed and I am only on 7 weeks or so. Also all these men salesmen hear my story and tell my husband he is right . . . that I should just overlook the big tank and awkward handlebars and I should shut up and just ride. In a way I know that it is a mental thing, but am I a safe responsible rider if I go out on 2.5 miles of gravel on a bike that just plain freaks me out? I trust you and your other readers to tell me women to women what to do here. I have been reading all your entries and am absorbing every word. Thanks for all you do for everyone here. And I also would love to buy a copy of your book when you are published. – Angeleyes121389, aka Heidi in Minnesota Dear
Heidi, I wouldn't give up on that Volusia quite yet. All the bigger bikes are going to be heavier, but you could fix that handlebar situation pretty easily. If the only thing is that you're reaching forward for the controls then check into a pullback riser. It will bring the handlebar back towards you. They come in different configurations of how much pullback and be careful because the cables have to stretch that far also. But it's cheap and easy to do. If the bar is actually too wide from side to side, then you need a need handlebar . . . read this article from J&P Cycle about how to measure the old one and choose the new one. As to the attitudes around you, a bike is NOT like a toaster oven . . . just because it works doesn't mean it's right! Would you buy a car when you can't reach the gas and brake pedals? Or have a hard time seeing out the rear window? That's why they make OEM and aftermarket products . . . to help riders customize their bike to match their needs. Since you have the Volusia, why not check into modifications first while also considering another bike. I've on bike #4 right now and can tell you that each of them handled very differently from each other . . . yes, it makes a difference! – Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, What is the difference between having forward mounted pegs as compared to having them directly beneath you? Forward mounted pegs are often felt by many people to be more comfortable, apart from that they have no advantage over pegs mounted beneath you. They do present a DISADVANTAGE because when you encounter a rough section of road, or corrugations on a dirt track you cannot stand up and remove your weight from the seat of the bike. It's a fact that pegs mounted in a position where you are able to stand up and remove some weight from the bike, and bend your knees to absorb some rough patches of road, will always be better in terms of controlling the bike as it moves under you. It's why ALL trail bikes and off road bikes have the pegs where they do, and why you see so many dirt bikers spending a lot of time standing up. Now I know most of you are reading this and thinking, hey I don't ride on dirt tracks. But all of you will encounter rough tarred roads or an obstruction at some time or another, and it's just something else to be aware of when purchasing a bike. In OZ our roads are horrendous, it's just a fact. If you try to stand up with forward mounted pegs you just end up pushing yourself further back in the seat, unless your arms are strong enough to lift you using the handlebars, and that's not a position you can hold for more than a few seconds anyway. I admit that pegs underneath me means after about two or three hours non-stop in the saddle I get cramp in my legs. That's probably old age and numerous off road accidents. The VLX 600 Honda I rode those two months in the USA never gave me any comfort problems at all. In fact it was THE most comfortable bike I have ever toured on. Having said that I was ok with pegs under me for many years previously. Ride safe. – Kevin in Sydney Dear
Kevin, Quite frankly, I'd love it if bikes had three sets of pegs, under you for all the reasons you note, forward so that legs can unkink on longer riders, and highway pegs for some serious leg out action when the beautiful scenery is going by, but you've got 300 miles more of it before you're where you need to be! In my mind, I'm mostly looking at peg position in relationship to my overall body position. I prefer to ride a bike that seats me like I'm sitting straight up in a kitchen chair (must be something about my Mama yelling at me all those years!) . . . as this provides me with the most stress-free riding. And as any experienced rider knows, take a 500 mile run in one day and you'll quickly figure out what could be improved on the bike to minimize misery! For myself, I loved the forward controls for my longer legs, but it tended to throw my back into a curve and cup my chest in so I was one big air scoop (hey, no windshield!). And that's all I have to say about it! Readers, what say thee? – Mama Friday, September 9 For Kevin who shared his opinion on forward controls: I just had to chime in with my 2 cents here – both my Honda Magna 750 (now sold & happy with a new owner that rides every day!) and my Honda Valkyrie have ‘upright’ peg positions with the pegs mounted directly under the rider. The difference in the height and length of the bike makes all the difference as to whether they are comfortable or not. The Magna was pure misery; I used the highways pegs at all times except when braking or shifting & even then I was trying to shift and brake with my heels rather than to move my feet back to those uncomfortable pegs! The Valkyrie is completely different – I can easily go an hour or two without using the highway pegs at all. Ran into a situation last night that made me very glad I wasn’t using those highway pegs! I was traveling approximately 70 mph in moderate traffic after dark and went through some construction I hadn’t been through in a week. There was a new segment of road that had the top layer of asphalt removed and the pavement underneath was grooved in preparation for laying new asphalt. The drop at the beginning of this segment was bad enough and took me by surprise, the grooves were deep and the bike began reacting with that characteristic wobble, then the bump back up to regular pavement came and nearly unseated me with the bike jerking over to the right about a foot. I quickly brought my weight up out of the seat and allowed the bike to stabilize (they really do prefer to be traveling in a straight line & will correct themselves with little or no help from their riders – laws of physics, just hard for us riders to accept and allow them that self correction!) – but if I had had my feet up on those highway pegs, this might have had a different ending with me trying to hold it steady with hands alone. I love that my highway pegs give my legs room to stretch, but I doubt I will use them very much after dark anymore; I prefer to have my feet under me when I need to react quickly like that! – Amy in Washington (note from Mama: thanks for sharing a first -hand experience where it really did help that you could quickly shift your weight off the seat . . . guess I really never thought about it with my bikes that had forward controls . . . and just wrestled everything with my arms!) Monday, September 19 Dear
VTwin Mama, The first day I was going to take the bike around the neighborhood, so I climbed on and went to back it out of the driveway. Unfortunately I turned too sharply and the bike went over! I pushed it back up and went into the house, pissed and embarrassed as Hell! After a few minutes I went back out and tried again. This time I made it out onto the road and decided to go fuel up at the gas station a few blocks away. As I drove up to the fuel island I did it again . . . too far to the right and over she went! I got her back up and put some fuel in. As I was going inside to pay, a guy came out and said "Looks like you need a smaller bike, little missy." Well, you can imagine how mad this made me-I told him that I had his smaller bike hanging right here, grabbed my crotch and went into the store! Thanks to him and my ego, I never dropped that baby again! Now, here's my advice. I was having a hard time getting used to leaning and speed. I rode around town quite a bit, but there was always a nervousness in the pit of my stomach. After a few months my bike began having some problems which I couldn't afford to fix at the time. It was killing me not to be able to ride it. Fortunately I began dating a guy that had a bike and he took me riding on it. During this time I was able to adjust to the feeling of speed and leaning into the curve without the added burden of operating the vehicle. I had him take me up and down hills, around curves, etc. During this time I would often close my eyes and let myself "feel" the movement of the bike. 3 months later I went to pick up my bike and hopped on. The difference was amazing! I was so much more comfortable on it, I couldn't believe it! Two weeks later we took a trip from Decatur, AL to Columbus, GA! My first road trip! We ran into early morning fog, rush hour traffic and some side winds that blew me across three lanes of traffic! (I nearly peed my pants on that one!) But I made it there and back safely and even found myself whipping thru Birmingham, AL rush hour traffic on the way home doing 70 mph . . . I didn't even realize it until my boyfriend told me when we stopped on the other side. He was beaming with pride, it was too cute! The other thing is for the new folks to take their time, go at their own pace and not let other people tell them how to ride, etc. I also drive an 18 wheeler and I never let anyone tell me how I should operate that either! I think it is especially hard when you are older and just learning how to ride-You've seen the accidents, heard the stories and are more aware of what can go wrong and just how inconsiderate and wacko people are! Good luck to all the newbies out there, once you get the hang of it . . . God what a rush! – BlackWidow, aka Donna Dear
BlackWidow, Wednesday, September 28 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dave has been riding about six months, the other day he told me he has trouble changing gear on his bike because his toe barely fits under the gearstick. He has small feet . . . I sorta scratched me head. Then I realized he kept the heel of his boot in the correct place on the foot peg. I said, "Ummm, Dave, has it ever occurred to you to put your whole heel section of boot on footpeg and thus you have more of your toes and front of foot under gearstick?" He confessed he had not thought of that. Then a lady rider asked me the same thing. I always rest my whole heel on the footpeg and change gear with the area of my foot just behind my big toe and first two toes. Always feel like I get a more solid shift that way. I never click up or down just using the ends of my boot/toes. Same with rear brake. Heel on peg, area behind toes pressing down on back brake, much more pressure applied this way. I hope this info helps someone else. – Kevin in Oz Dear Kevin, Monday, October 31 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Judy, Learning how a beastie handles and all it's specific characteristics IS a function of practice and one of the most important things you can do so that you and the bike become one. The time to learn how your bike will react is NOT when a problem arises. So, it's off to an empty parking lot for you. You're already understanding that in slow maneuvers using the front brake is a no-no. I'm guessing that in practice you're feeling the positive affects when you feather the rear brake and how it helps you stay upright. The same principle holds true if you find the bike's rear end sliding out from under you in a faster curve (sand in the road, you've taken the curve too fast, etc.) . . . feather the back brake (don't jam on it) and it will help right the bike and don't use the front brake. However, in a straight line stop, it's absolutely the front brake you want to use, especially if the stop has to be fast. 75% of your braking power is in the front. Go to your practice lot, or just down a side street in your neighborhood that's not busy, and in a straight line, gain some speed, and use only your front brake. A little at first, then more and more. See the difference in your stopping power and how it feels. Then do the same with just the back brake. Then again with a combination of both. If you're in an empty lot, set up a cone or other marker to "set" the stop point. Gain some speed and practice lazy slow stops, faster "gotta jam" stops, etc. Learn, learn, learn! I'm guessing that with a few sessions you'll come to understand how to use the brakes the right way for the situation you're in. That's the key . . . know what combination is right, practice it till you're good and sick of it, and when you need it most, your brain/body will use the right combination automatically. I often times take the time just out on a routine ride to review different combinations of things to re-remind myself of how my bike reacts or even just "brain" reviewing . . . what would I do if I was in a high speed curve and all of a sudden a stopped "something" appeared in my pathway. By mentally thinking these things through, I know I have a better chance of doing the right thing when it matters! – Mama Monday, October 31 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Lisa, Monday, October 31 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Eileen, Monday, December 5 Wazzup
Mama, Dear
Patricia, I use a combination of both downshift and brakes depending on how quickly I need to bleed off speed. What you definitely want to make sure of is that you know how the bike handles when you need the brakes in a quicker stop situation. It does no good to save the brakes if you then don't know how to use them properly when you need them! – Mama |
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