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2001 Dear VTwin Mama, But quite frankly, if your skills are that rusty, I'd be more worried about knowing where the front and rear brakes are than anything else! Go dig out the owner's manual to review where all the crucial controls are. Practice far, far away from anything you could run over or in to, dress like you might fall and then go for it! You might want to consider taking private instruction to relearn the mechanics or riding and then a motorcycle safety course -- that's about riding safely at all times and learning how to handle yourself and the bike in a wide variety of situations. Gosh Brandon, I hope this was the type of info you were looking for. Don't hesitate to write in again with more info on what your situation is because we certainly are here to help. Consider checking out the Women on Wheels organization for the name of a woman rider in your area who is willing to give moral support. – Mama Tuesday, September 25 Dear VTwin Mama, I think you should have told Brandon to take the MSF course and if she failed it to take it as many times as necessary and not give up or let anyone talk her out of riding. Find a road or parking lot with little traffic and practice, practice, practice!!! – Bobbye P.S. Also I would love to have a big
motorcycle flag similar to the ones that people hang out on the side of
their houses. I know you are in the know of the motorcycle world and
thought you might know of a company that makes such flags. I want one that
is not brand related, just a generic motorcycle. Your response is much more caring and understanding and I appreciate that you took the time to set me straight. This is how we learn. As for the motorcycle flag question, I found this:
Readers, do you have any other sources for generic motorcycle flags that hang from the house? – Mama Monday, February 4 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear NER, Dear VTwin Mama, It brought back the memory of my first time running out of gas -- I wasn't sure how to do my reserve -- but was able to pull over and wait for my husband -- he was wanting to find out how many miles my bike could get before I needed reserve. My safety class showed us where the reserve is and how it works, but even so you need to be able to reach it and know which way to turn it without having to look down. That girl was probably a fairly new rider -- so all you biker gals out there -- sit on your bikes and learn where the reserve switch is and how it works. DON'T WAIT UNTIL YOU NEED IT. Better yet fill up often. We go a lot and stop often to fill up. Remember -- know where your reserve is and don't look for it in motion. – Georgia Dear Georgia, Monday, February 25 Here are two responses to the tragedy of not knowing where your reserve gas tank lever is: That was a tragic accident. I also ran out of gas on the highway once. Scary moment, as I did not realize it was just the gas. I slowly, but carefully crossed over to the next exit. Flipped the switch and made my way to the nearest station. Am very glad to have the "out of gas - reserve tank" light feature on my current bike. It's never let me down yet. – Denny Been there....done that! That is a very scary feeling. Thanks for reminding us to familiarize ourselves with that feature on our bikes. Since I now have a different bike, I certainly do need to check the location and learn to make the switch. – Betty Monday, March 11 Dear VTwin Mama, My first thought was that I had ruined my brand new bike and my husband was going to kill me. I checked everything out and then remembered the reserve and was on my way. When I told my husband what happened, he asked me how many miles were on the trip meter when the bike stalled. I told him and from that point on we have kept track on the trip meter and headed for a gas station before the reserve would kick in. This way, we don't have to use the switch, but I do change to reserve when it gets close because I don't want to get caught on the highway and run out. My tank has a 1.3 gallon reserve. By the way , has anyone been next to your tank when you put it on reserve? You can actually hear the gas run into the main tank. It's pretty cool. – Cindy Dear Cindy, Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Joyce, WHO CARES ! ! ! ! We're here sister and glad you found us! And boy, do I hear you on that whole throttle thing -- I scared myself good a few times in the beginning, and I was in neutral! It just goes to show you, practice is your friend. But seriously (or something closely approximating it), with the bike off, practice squeezing the brake while you roll your wrist back and downwards. This will pull the palm of that hand in a backward motion which is the de-throttle (if that's a word) movement. It's not an exaggerated movement, but rather concentrating on what the rest of your hand is doing while you're squeezing. Oh, that sounded slightly steamy. And then practice with the bike (in neutral first), as I assume you actually would like to go somewhere at some point in time! Tons of luck and if any VTwin Mama sisters have anything to say, well . . . let 'er rip! – Mama (P.S. Sorry to hear about your SO's illness -- my heartfelt sympathy.) Tuesday, May 7 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear VTwin Mama, Curves come natural to me, corners need work, but I am soooo EXCITED!!! Can't wait for the MSF course so I can feel more confident with stopping. Thanks for your support!!! I am now officially a VTwin Mama! – Joyce Dear Joyce, Yes, you're officially a VTwin Mama -- so you just keep trying and remember, despite the minor ickies that will still happen from time to time, you know that practice and resolve to learn are the keys to your ultimate success. Any new riders reading this, take heart and understand that "talking it out" does have it's benefits and we're here to listen! And here's a message from Beckie to Joyce: Good for you learning to ride at age 45! I too am a "late bloomer," learning to kayak, rollerblade, scuba dive, drive a snow mobile, and relearning to ride a motorcycle. My son thinks I'm having a "mid-life crisis!" Silly boy! Congratulations, Beckie M. – Mama Monday, May 20 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Newbie, All American bikes are essentially the same! The key has a slot, usually on the left side. The gas cock is usually there also and has three positions, on -- off -- reserve. Check that it is on. Check that the bike is in neutral (usually an indicator light on a control panel will show this when you turn the key, or, climb on the bike before its running and if its in neutral you'll be able to easily move the bike forward or backward a bit. If it is in gear, it ain't going nowhere). Then hit a start switch which could be on the right side handlebar control set or in the center somewhere. Take a deep breath when approaching the bike and ask the owner to go over the controls with you and any other points of interest (oil dipstick check, etc.). There is no shame in walking up to a strange bike and verbally reviewing all of these things -- it shows respect. Just don't do it an apologetic way -- but simply indicate that you're not familiar with this model and you would like to make sure before you start the test ride! Good luck and happy hunting. – Mama Monday, August 26 Dear VTwin Mama, One, is that I got a "dead arm" from my neck down to my fingertips on the right side because my handlebars don't come far enough back to meet me, and I have to sit a little forward to even be straight armed. I think the reaching did it to me. Had stuff behind me, cuz we were camping, but couldn't use any of it as backrest because of handlebar situation. Dead arm sounds funny, but your arm not only goes to sleep, but there is a strong, dull pain that accompanies it. Was not funny. Had trouble keeping grip on throttle because of it, and was gale force winds we were riding in. See how, it was not so funny? Any suggestions on types of handles bars that would help? Don't want to purchase a new set, only to have same thing happen. Is there a way to test different handlebars before you buy? Secondly, being 5'7", and having an advanced degenerative disease in the large toe joint of my foot, that has now caused changes in my knee also (extremely painful, and makes me walk with a limp all the time), I found that the foot pegs on the VLX were just too darned close for me and caused me a great deal of pain riding for hours on end like that. Yet, I don't see any way to move them forward. I'm just flat out, out of bike! Is there some device or product you can buy that would allow the foot pegs to be moved forward to allow the legs to stretch out a bit more for the VLX? I love my bike in all other aspects, and it would be a shame to have to sell it when I just got used to it, and have to start all over with a different, larger bike, that I'm not sure I'm ready for. Anybody know of anything that would work? Thanks! – Stacie Dear Stacie, As to your handlebars, I don't doubt that the stretch to reach contributed to your "dead arm," but I'm also here to tell you that keeping your wrist flexed back to hold the throttle open the whole time is a biggee in numbing the right side. So install a throttle lock pronto. I'm not sure how to size a new handlebar before purchase -- any ideas sisters? I seem to recall telling my dealer I wanted to replace the stock handlebars on my bike, with more "reach" back, but that the width between the two sides was ok, and he knew what to show me. Hmmmm. My only thought on the foot peg is to mount a crash bar at the front of your bike and then "hang" foot pegs off it to give you another leg position. This one you might want to bring directly to your local dealer or independent shop to help you solve. – Mama Thursday, September 12 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Goatly (now there's GOT to be a
good story behind that nickname!), I guess the bigger issue here is that if you took a poll of all riders, very few would say they use this to hold position in an uphill stop situation. Sure, maybe for a moment (defined as 3 seconds or less!) -- for whatever reason (although there riders are more likely to gauge the situation beforehand and slow to a crawl to keep from having to put their feet down) -- but otherwise, riders learn to master some combination of brake control. Personally, I keep my bike in first gear with the clutch lever pulled in and hold the bike in position with my right foot brake and keep balance with my left foot planted firmly on the ground. That leaves my hands free to engage the clutch and roll the throttle smoothly together, while "skimming" my feet over the ground as I begin forward momentum in case my bike and me feel like leaning a little too much on take off! Sisters -- any other ideas about why the clutch idea is ok/not ok? – Mama Wednesday, October 30 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Blake, Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Kathy, Tuesday, November 19 For Kathy N. who was wondering about shifting on the Vulcan 500: I have a 2002 Vulcan 500 LTD I have been riding since May of this year. I started on a Rebel 250 last year and there is some difference in shifting on it and the Vulcan. I do not seem to have to shift as quickly on this bike but you do have to shift a little more often for certain speeds. I was shifting into 6th gear at around 50 mph and at times it would seem to be whining out. My husband spoke to some people at the VROC (Vulcan Riders and Owners Club) site and they suggested to change the sprockets on the bike. So far he has changed the front sprocket on it and it has made a big difference. I get much smoother ride and also shifting is farther apart between speeds. We are talking about changing the rear sprocket this winter to improve highway performance. On the front we changed from a 16 tooth sprocket to a 17 tooth. On the rear we plan to go from a 42 tooth to a 40 tooth. The gear ratio from 16 front and 42 rear is 2.63. Changing it to a 17 front and 40 rear give the gear ratio of 2.35. You won't lose any power doing this, gives much better performance at highway speeds. With only the front changed so far I can now shift into 6th at around 60 to 65 mph. So shifting is much improved. I can't wait to see what changing the rear will add to the bike. We ordered the sprockets from www.sprocketspecialists.com. Hope this helps and good luck. If I can be of any more help just let me know. – Lil Bit (note from Mama: thanks a ton for sharing this specific info that is sure to help Kathy ponder her next move!) Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Dawn, I find that overall arm strength can add to your ease, so I lift small free weights every other day to tone my arms, adding strength to my shoulders and arms. It really does work -- I'm less fatigued on long rides. I also find that by doing sit-ups on a regular basis that my body is also less tired -- strong stomach muscles support the back which also helps. You can find affordable free weights in your local Wal-Mart's sporting goods section in packages with different pounds and complete instructions so you can gradually work your way into it. 15 minutes every other day makes a difference -- try it! – Mama Thursday, January 9 For Dawn whose wrists are cramping up: I always try to keep my hands/arms relaxed during a ride. It's easy to get that "death grip" on the handlebars when you're in heavy traffic, bad weather etc. I try to consciously relax my grip during long rides as well as wiggle my fingers. I know this sounds kind of weird, but I've found that if I keep my upper body relaxed, I don't get nearly as tired. Meanwhile, that Throttle Rocker will help a lot to keep your right hand/arm loose. Best of luck! – Jan (note from Mama: ah yes, it's so easy to get the death grip without even realizing it. Thanks for mentioning it!) Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Jill, And that goes for moving up so many cc's (by the by, congrats on the awesome new bike!). You'll want to take that beastie out to a traffic-free area and re-practice your basic skills, like gear shifting, stopping smoothly where you actually want to stop (!), slow turns from a stop, slow turns around corners, straight lines and wiggles to "learn" how the new weight feels beneath you , dead stop and lean the bike to feel the weight so you don't get caught by surprise on a slight incline, working with the bike to push it back from a parked position or doing Y turns to back it into a parked slot, taking off from a stop on an "up" hill, picking up the bike if something icky happens (check my Pick Up Bike page), and whatever else you think you need to rediscover with the bigger bike w/ fairing. It'll be worth it to "step back" a notch and act exactly like a new rider -- because essentially that is what you are with the bigger bike! At the same time you'll be able to note how the fairing is altering your previous ride experience -- but doing so in a safe zone where you've got no distractions to deal with at the same time. If any readers want to share their "fairing stories," now is the time to chime in! – Mama Friday, May 2 For Jill whose moved up to a bigger bike and has to contend with a fairing that she's not used to: About a year after I got my Nighthawk, hubby and I were riding across Missouri, with a side wind of epic proportions. I had no fairing at that time. By the time we got home, my neck hurt where the wind had tried to strangle me with my helmet (which was being worn properly to begin with). I decided that it was time to remedy that situation. (I was being macho, the hubby and uncle both have gold wings, fully dressed) I went to the local used bike shop and found, to my delight, a stripped down fairing to put on my Nighthawk. I added virtually no weight, but the benefits were worth the money spent for that frivolous item. It was a bugger to install, but well worth the time and effort. My bike is still the lightest in the group and I intend to keep it that way. – Traci Stroud in Independence, MO (note from Mama: thanks for sharing how a fairing is making a huge difference in your riding experience -- I have to admit that I'm often tempted to add one myself -- and probably will after I get battered on my next long journey!) I moved from a Honda Magna 750 to a Honda Goldwing 1800 with a fairing. I was concerned about not seeing the wheel, but within 15 minutes I completely forgot about it and didn't notice it. I did what Petra advised and practiced and it worked out well. It turned out to be an easy adjustment. Have a great time and just ride, ride , ride. – Joy (note from Mama: omigosh, I actually make sense on occasion?! Good for you -- this can be a big transition and practice is always the key. And a Goldwing -- I'm sooooo jealous!) Monday, May 19 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Beck, So I did what I advise all my readers. When trying something new, practice some where you feel comfortable. So I took the BMW out on the road for a good stretch of straight riding to make sure I had the feel of shifting and braking without having to move my feet. Then, and only then, did I take it up a stretch of road that's twisty (and even then I took it easy to learn how responsive the throttle was, etc.) and make sure I could find the rear brake! So I think the answer to your question is no, it's not hard, but like anything else, practice is still the key! The bigger question for you will be whether those forward controls will be a comfortable leg position for longer hauls, and only time can tell. I'll be riding the BMW over the next month before I take it on a road trip of over 1000 miles to make sure I'm ready to handle all situations comfortably. So, even though I've been riding since 1979, this is STILL a NEW BIKE for ME and practice is still the only answer for a safe, comfortable transition. Have at 'er! The jury is still out on whether ultimately I'll like the controls beneath better than my forward controls. Hmmmm. – Mama Share Your ThoughtsTop Dear VTwin Mama, It happened once when I came to the traffic light at the 3rd gear, I held on to the clutch and stepped down the gear on the way to the very bottom. I thought it was already the first gear. But it turned out that it only shifted one gear down. So my bike stalled when I released the clutch. It was a really scary experience. Do I really need to release the clutch each time after I shift one gear? Or is this a problem with my bike? – Willy Dear Willy, Top Thursday, May 29 For Willy who is figuring out the shifting of gears: I wonder if Willy is thinking that you can shift from 4th to 1st with one down-stroke of your foot. If I want to downshift real quick, I pull my clutch in and take the gears down one at a time. I can leave the clutch in the whole time, but I have to shift down through each gear before getting to where I want it. I understand what VTwin Mama is saying, that in most cases you shift down as you are coming to a rolling stop, but occasionally, there is a need to stop a little quicker, then take your gears down to where you should be. One pull on the clutch and several down shifts works for me. Hope that helps. – Michele (note from Mama: of course it does, as it is a much clearer answer than my original thoughts. The point being that every "click" of the shifter represents one gear level and no more!) Share Your ThoughtsTop Dear VTwin Mama, Now, on to my question . . . I took the MSF course about 3 weeks ago (the class bike was a Honda Nighthawk 250). After searching for the right bike, I just purchased a Suzuki Intruder 800. Although I did great in the class, I am having slight problems starting from first. The Intruder seems to need some gas to get going, whereas the Honda needed none. I have killed the Intruder numerous times trying to get the clutch/throttle timing correct. I am getting better (actually, the less I think about it -- the better I am), but my husband suggested changing the idle. He said that changing the idle would not be great for the bike long term, but that the change would ensure that I didn't kill the bike as often. I think that he is just getting annoyed -- but I would like your opinion. Should I adjust the idle or just keep practicing. Thanks so much!! – Natalie Dear Natalie, One of the biggest things we talk about on the site is about not letting others push you too far too fast -- and that you have to follow your own path of learning. Stick with it and you'll get there! Believe it or not, once you've mastered this on your own bike, any other bike you ride (which will again have different throttle/clutch combinations of what it takes to "go") will never pose a problem again because you will develop a "feel." So don't cheat yourself out of learning this! – Mama Share Your ThoughtsTop Wednesday, June 11 For Natalie, who is getting use to her Intruder 800, but stalling out every once in awhile yet: Hey Natalie, I have a Volusia. I really, really love it
and it only has a couple of little flaws. One is they are kind of
cold-blooded, need to sit and run a little before taking off or they do
stall a bit. Also a little heads up. A few of them have a kick-stand
problem. It doesn’t always hold. Apparently there is a notch that it
clicks down into, and on some it isn’t quite deep enough. I’ve not had
a problem with mine and it’s even been out in some really strong gusty
winds. (I live not far from where all the tornadoes hit in In response to Natalie and her stalling her Suzuki - Welcome to the club! I too, am an Intruder owner, and I think I have stalled that baby once or twice. We did not change her idle, but there has been a lot of practice in that seat. What I have found out, is that the Intruder loves to have its choke pulled all the way out, further than it really wants to go just to start up (especially in the cold or damp weather). It takes several minutes for the bike to run smooth and solid, before I push the choke in and then it seldom goes all the way in. Maybe you're pushing your choke in a little too soon. Have your "mechanic minded husband" give a good listen to when he thinks the choke should be bumped in, a little at a time. Of course, practice always helps. – Michele (note from Mama: gulp -- yes, I'm learning that to start my friend's BMW, you have to start with the choke out all the way, give it a few minutes and then shut it down. If I did this with my Harley in the summer, I'd be flooding my spark plugs from here to the next county and never get them dry again! A bike is very much like . . . your heart (you thought I was going to say man, didn't you?!) -- you've got to listen to it a lot to learn what really makes it sing! Tra la la!) Share Your ThoughtsTop Thursday, June 12 For Natalie, who is getting use to her Intruder 800, but stalling out every once in awhile yet: Hmmm...my last bike was a Suzuki Savage. I don't know if each model is a little different from one another, but the day I picked my Savage up from the Dealer, they had the mechanic come in and give me a run down on the bike. One of the things he told me was to pull out the choke and then start the bike. Then count to 15 and push the choke back in. It worked just as he said it would. Maybe all dealers should give that service to it's customers. I know I appreciated it! – Bootygrandma aka Betty (note from Mama: yes, every bike is different, but the proper warm-up is important -- thanks for the heads up on what you learned!) Share Your ThoughtsTop Friday, June 13 For Natalie, who is getting use to her Intruder 800, but stalling out every once in awhile yet: When I was trying to get use to my new-to-me bike, we had a run to go on with our local chapter of the GWTA. The lead rider took us through a city, very heavy traffic, stop-n-go all the way. That was the day I finally (after weeks and weeks of riding) got the clutch/throttle combo I needed to keep from killing the bike. I felt like I had to get it right or take a ribbing from the other riders, all men, forever. Keep trying, and hang in there. You'll get it, probably sooner rather than later. – Traci (note from Mama: isn't it amazing how a little "gotta show 'em" does wonders for finally mastering a riding skill?!?!?!) Share Your ThoughtsTop Wednesday, July 16 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Deborah, If you need to slow down significantly (which will bring you to a stop), then concentrate on quickly gearing down (but make sure you practice this so that you know how the bike reacts while decelerating going from gear to gear: third to second can be a bit of an abrupt change) to let the transmission slow you down, in combination with the front brake. Application of the rear brake should be done cautiously and gently. My guess is that you've just been jamming on the rear brake a bit too much lately. If you need to build a bit of confidence back up, take your bike and a piece of chalk (or something easy to see) to an empty parking lot and "line out" a stop position (indicating a traffic light) and a mark farther away that approximates a quick stop distance you'd like to master. Then get up to speed and when you approach the first line, begin CAREFULLY trying different combinations of gearing down and front brake and back brake to bring you through a controlled slow down to final stop position. Don't worry if it takes you awhile to find the right combination that works for you -- this is a great skill to learn and will help you understand how your bike handles in a variety of situations. – Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Michele, Tuesday, July 22 For Michele who is trying to get the throttle/clutch combo under control: Mama is right! Practice is the best....what I did was keeping practicing on the street in front of my house, the garage and the driveway. Turn the throttle a little more than you think is necessary to start and let the clutch out halfway (or maybe less) until you feel the bike start to move. Let off the throttle slowly when the bike starts to move. Sometimes, my bike got loud... : ) Whew! But, I loved the sound of that engine!!!!!!! Remember, you can always pull the clutch in to slow it down some. I learned this the best on a dirt bike. And I would highly recommend to everyone to practice some on a dirt bike, if you have the opportunity. They are light and if you drop them...hey, they can handle it and so can you. Not to mention, you get tremendous experience for other things that may come up...such as gravel, rocks, leaves and a sandy shoulder, etc. To practice, I use to just sit of the street bike for a half hour to an hour at a time just letting the bike move backward a couple of feet and moving forward a couple of feet. Then, I worked on the driveway. My driveway is on a hill. This was the best practice for when you come to a stop on a hill. If you feel the bike start to move backwards, give it some more gas. Eventually, you will be "slipping the clutch" a little bit more. With practice you will find the friction zone and realize how much gas you can give it. I found out that you can give it more gas than you think. Give it some time and practice and eventually it will come naturally. Happy Riding! – SG in NH (note from Mama: thanks for this letter of support and some constructive ideas on the practice sessions!) When practicing out of traffic, listen to the sound of your engine, listen to how it sounds as you put gas on to when you just start to move, the engine sound will change as the gears kick in and clutch lets off. You will want to get to know the sound of how much gas you apply so you don't stall. This is how I figured it out anyway, hope it helps. – MJ (note from Mama: another bit of sound advice!) Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Angela, I have always advocated that strengthening of arm and shoulder muscles through free-weight exercises, and also sit ups and such for the back and stomach, are an excellent way to help your body handle the almost rigid position it must maintain while riding a bike. It's worth considering. – Mama Monday, August 4 It may also help to strengthen that hand and forearm. Get one of those squeezie balls or hand exercisers. – Rachel (note from Mama: good idea!) Monday, August 4 For Michele who wants to practice finding the friction zone on the clutch: It's been my experience that "walking" the clutch is the best way to become comfortable with it. On a flat surface, without using the throttle, let the clutch out SLOWLY and feel where it engages. Do this repeatedly until you can completely let the clutch out in first gear without using the throttle at all. Then try it on a slight incline. Then introduce the throttle slowly, and you'll feel how much smoother you become in all kinds of different conditions! – jzred02, Cols, Ohio (note from Mama: this is sound, practical advice -- thanks for sharing a useful technique!) Tuesday, August 26 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Tato, Dear
VTwin Mama, At any rate, I finally rode with him and for my birthday (6-29) he bought a brand new '02 650 V-Star. He surprised my by bringing it home on a trailer. I had originally wanted a Heritage but he wants me to get some exp under my belt first. I love this bike. I have taken the MSC and it was very helpful. Even dropped their bike...haha.... At first I was terrified to go around the block. Most of my rides where 2-3 miles max. Two weeks ago I went on a 125 mile ride with my husband and his friend thru the hill country in central Texas. It was the most incredible thing I have ever done. The freedom and exhilaration are without equal. While I love my little VStar, I will one day have the Heritage or Dyna low rider. I enjoy reading your website and it has helped me a lot to know that I am not alone in feeling nervous and wanting to take my time. I plan on riding for the rest of my life. However, I am having a problem that I have not seen discussed elsewhere on your site. When I ride my hands go numb, especially my throttle hand. I bought some good gel gloves and they seem to have helped. But it is still a problem, especially cruising at about 70. (It gets worse at higher speeds). Do you have any suggestions? Thanks for all your help. – Mawmaw Dear
Mawmaw, I can only begin guessing about what might be causing the numbness, especially at higher speeds. Is it possible that you are gripping the handlebar much tighter at higher speeds than you are at lower ones? This death grip, a natural reaction for new riders who unknowingly "hold on for dear life," could be cutting off the circulation to your fingers. The only other thing I can think of is that your handlebars are forcing your arms slightly upward in their angle to the handlebar, thus causing the blood to drain down from your fingers, and more noticeable at higher speeds because you are normally cruising greater distances before you come to a stop and relax your arms and hands. A combination of both? Some bikes do set up a higher "vibration" throughout the bike, especially when running higher RPMs which you can expect in the highest gear, again, when you're cruising at higher speeds and longer distances. Can you try other bikes to see if the feeling is the same? Readers, if you have alternative solutions or thoughts, now is the time to chime in! – Mama Tuesday, September 9 For Mawmaw whose throttle hand is going numb: I had the same problem with the numb hand (throttle hand) that Mawmaw reported. I also ride a VStar and the do vibrate more than other bikes I've ridden. An orthopedic surgeon told me it was "nerve irritation". I was really beginning to get discouraged because I would ride as little as 10 or 12 miles and my hand would be numb and tingling. I tried holding the throttle differently, etc. but nothing worked until I happened to see an ad for the Throttle Rocker. No, I don't work for them but will gladly give them some free advertising. This little piece of molded plastic attaches to the throttle so you can rest the heel of your hand on it, enabling you to twist the throttle without gripping it very much at all. After over 30 years of motorcycling I sure didn't want to give it up now, and this little $10 piece of plastic has really made a difference! Throttle Rocker, PO Box 2478, Boulder Creek CA, (831)338-3120; www.throttlerocker.com. Keep up the good work VTwin Mama! – On the Road Again (note from Mama: a number of the aftermarket catalogs carry this product as well -- just check my Product Sources page for the links!) I would add one more possibility --- check the angle of the handlebars and your wrists. In most cases, it almost feels like your wrist is "cocked." Some individuals get into a repetitive motion syndrome or aggravate carpal tunnel syndrome (that they may not have known they have). If changing out the handlebars isn't an option, there are wrist flexibility and strengthening exercises that will alleviate most of the problem. I experienced a similar problem on my Route 66 ride this past June. I was surprised because I do ride a good bit. Got to thinking about it and realized that I didn't ride consistently at 65 - 70 mph for 6-8 hours a day on a regular basis. The 3rd day of a 14 day ride I barely had the strength in my left hand to turn the key on or off. I started exercising my wrists at every gas stop or "get-off-and-look-see," also took every opportunity to put my arms at my side and shake them to get the blood flowing, and at night I alternated cold and heat on my wrists (always finish with cold). After 2 days I noticed a marked improvement so I continued the routine until I got back home. I did check the angle of my handlebars and the angle of my wrists when I got home. Sure enough, there is just enough cock to cause a nerve pinch on the little finger side. I have continued with the wrist exercises (off and on) but deliberately ramp up prior to longer rides. So far, it seems to work. – Linda and her Magna in Texas (note from Mama: thanks for the excellent input and added thoughts -- it's amazing that something seemingly so "small" can have such a marked effect.) Here is something that may help MawMaw with numb throttle hand. It is call Throttle Rocket. For $10.00 you can purchase this at most any dealers. It is a piece of well made plastic that goes on the throttle and lets you work the throttle with no more effort than what your left hand puts out just sitting there holding the other side. It is a God Send for me. Just have to remember at the higher speeds to use it and let your hand relax. I have a spare one as I just do not want to go with out it. Plus I get a lot of comments on it and how to get one, sometimes I will just let the person buy my spare and I go get another one. I just completed 1500 miles in less that 36 hours. (Going for an Iron Butt association certificate) I know that if I did not have the Throttle Rocket I seriously do not know if I would have made it. As I have bad hands from many years of knife work at very fast speeds in a slaughter house when I was younger. Even my boyfriend who did not want one thinking it might not be to macho to use one uses one. I got one for him to try and it stays on the bike now. Funny how that works :) So MawMaw, go buy the Throttle Rocket and relax your grip. Let us know how it works for you. I have seen them at Harley Dealers and Yamaha Dealers. Happy Riding! – Celeste of Oregon (note from Mama: it looks the Throttle Rocket is THE thing to get and try -- thanks for your personal story about how it worked -- especially the boyfriend macho thing -- hilarious!) I also get numbness in my throttle hand/fingers, esp. on longer rides, and I also ride a 650 VStar. I find that having a Vista-cruise or some other throttle holding mechanism helps tremendously. I wouldn't want to ride without one. It allows me to let go of the throttle for a couple of seconds and stretch my hand, returning the circulation. I hope this helps. Good riding!!! – Kathy Schacher, aka SFS woman (short, fat and sassy) in Knoxville, TN (note from Mama: I'm convinced -- there ARE solutions that maybe I need to be checking out as well!) I don’t wanna scare this poor rider-but it kinda sounds like one of the thangz I got goin on w/my bod. It's called ulnar nerve damage. Part of the right side of my left hand is all tingly and numb -- and if I don’t keep it extended straight, it falls asleep, and it burns and hurts. It's of "unknown etiology" (which is a fancy shmancy way of saying they don’t know what caused it or where it came from etc). It stems from the ulnar nerve in the left elbow...they do an EMG test...if its bad enuff -- they'll open up the elbow and tweek the nerve. If not -- you gotta just live with it. I walk with forearm crutches due to my knee osteoarthritis, so the continuous pressure on my hands when I use the fore-arm crutches could have kicked it up, but yeah -- the vibrations could do it too. See if you have a family history of any kind of nerve or arthritis issues and if it does continue, I'd definitely get an appointment to first see your primary doc and then have an EMG w/a neurologist....sorry if I've scared you!! Wishing I was tingling in the wind!!!! Oh, I'm getting discharged from physical therapy and I've got an appointment w/the orthopedic surgeon in two weeks to discuss knee replacement....if it’s a go, there's a one in a zillion chance I could be riding in 2005!!!!!! Pray, sisters! Pray!!! Peace. – Susan, aka blooze56 in Boston (note from Mama: thank you for sharing your own source of numbness -- it may be scary, but then our bodies are such mysterious vessels and so much can happen. I'm hoping your future prognosis is the very best it can be -- we want to see you riding with a huge smile on your face as well!) Tuesday, September 16 For Mawmaw whose throttle hand is going numb: I just bought the Throttle Boss from KuryAkyn and I'm also now a big supporter of these "throttle helpers!" However, I sometimes get numbness in my left arm (maybe associated with an old break) and I find that readjusting my shoulder posture fixes it up. – Marina (note from Mama: it is surprising how quickly our body will let us know when it is being "forced" into a sustained position it really doesn't like! Adjusting position as you suggested or having someone review your overall body posture is a simple method to try first!) Dear
VTwin Mama and readers, Dear
Lois, Thursday, September 18 For Lois who is having problems finding neutral on her Virago 250: I have a 2003 Virago 250 and noticed the same problem. The first thing I wanted to do was lift the shifter gently into neutral (from first gear), but it always went into second unless I shut the bike off. I later noticed (with the bike running) that once it was in second gear, it was easier to gently touch the gear shift lever downward and neutral was easier to find. Easy does it, though. I know this seems backwards but it works on my bike. And incidentally, I never get a false neutral shifting from first to second as beginners too often do. Hope this helps. – Linda Carruth (note from Mama: thanks for letting Lois know that you experienced the same problem -- first hand accounts are always the best!) Thursday, September 18 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Mawmaw, Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Kelly, Unfortunately, practice is the key to mastering a smooth use of the clutch and throttle combination. Basically, the clutch lever simply engages and disengages the gears in the transmission so that forward movement is possible. However, if you don't give it some gas, and let the clutch lever out, it will simply "clunk" and die. So, the point is to slowly let the clutch lever out while giving it a little gas. Each bike's clutch/throttle relation is different, so there is no fast and simple "rule" as to how much clutch lever to let out and how much gas to give. It's a matter of feel and practice. Any chance that you have family, friends or neighbors with a small 250cc bike handy? Then the thing to do is have someone get that to an empty parking lot somewhere nearby and begin practicing without an instructor breathing down your neck. No? Then consider renting a small bike (check for Honda Rebel 250 or Yamaha Virago 250) for a day or two when you know that practice time is possible. Also, if finances allow, check the local paper for used 250cc bikes -- you might even be able to wiggle out a rental from the seller. A last resort might be to contact the local riding groups in your area to see if any of the members might have such a bike around -- you never know! My guess is that the clutch/throttle sequence will click with just a few hours of quiet, non-stressed practice. Then head back to the classroom with renewed confidence because YOU CAN DO IT! – Mama Thursday, October 2 For Kelly who is trying to master the initial clutch lever/throttle control sequence effectively: Having never driven a stick shift, I had a little trouble with this in the beginning, too. "A little clutch, a little throttle" just wasn't getting it for me. I eventually realized (nobody told me this) that the bike usually has a little bit of idle. I found if I let the clutch out just to the friction zone, with no throttle, it would start to go. THEN I used the throttle. If I didn't give it any gas it would stall out of course, but I learned more quickly from that than stalling at the get go. In the safety classes they have you "rock the baby" as some call it: letting the clutch out to the friction zone so the bike starts to move forward slightly (feet still on the ground) and then pulling the clutch in as you rock back on your heels. Trouble is, they don't let you do it long enough. This is also good practice for clutch control and learning that reflex to cut power to the back wheel. I'm almost ashamed to say it, but I sometimes do this before I leave the driveway. It helps me relax my nerves and get me back into that clutch/throttle groove. – Linda Carruth (note from Mama: there is no shame in continuing to practice a technique that is helping you to master the skills you need to become a proficient rider. That's SMART! Thanks for providing a better perspective on this issue.) Dear
VTwin Mama, I just got my license last weekend and my first bike. I bought a Yamaha VStar Classic 1100 from some friends. Its a great bike--real stable and smooth, but quite a bit bigger and heavier than the ones we used in the MSF class last weekend. A 130 lb female had ridden this bike before me so although its big, I felt I could learn to ride it. I took it to a parking lot a couple of times today to practice maneuvering this bigger bike. I really got the hang of it and things were going well, I was able to do some quick stops, figure 8’s etc. but then…. I was practicing parking against a curb. I wanted to gently curve the bike around and than back into a space. However, this is where things went awry. As I was heading toward the curve and turning sharply to the left, I applied the front brake and apparently somehow hit the throttle at the same time. I inadvertently zoomed right over the curb and wiped out the bike. My instinct fortunately was to immediately roll away from the bike so no big injury (a cut and swollen lip but I’ll live through it). I managed to get the bike back up but couldn’t budge it over the rut it was in and back down to the lot. Mostly what was hurt was my confidence, as I had to call a friend to come and help me get the bike back down over the curb into the lot. The crash bar was also bent in and prevented good access to the shift lever. Fortunately we were able to bend it out a bit and I got home safely. And finally my question to you….any ideas on how I might have hit the brake and the throttle at the same time? Even more pertinent, do you have any tips on how to prevent this from happening in the future? Is this common, as I have not been able to find any info about this with a Google search? Oh and in case anyone is interested in how a 5’2” gal could pick up a 650 lb bike….check out this site with instructions that worked: http://www.pinkribbonrides.com/dropped.html. Thanks much, – Lynn Dear
Lynn, Let's pretend you were trying to park in a slot and bikes were all around. The correct thing to do is to slow down and stop a little short of the slot you are aiming for (A). Then you slip the clutch just a little (and the tiniest amount of throttle if you have to) to give you forward momentum and make a soft curve turn into the road (B). Then get into neutral, straighten your front wheel and angle back into the slot (C). The whole time in B and C your feet are "duck" walking the bike.
Even if there is a straight shot at parking at a curb, keeping the front tire away from the curb (at least a half bike's length) is a really, really good idea. Then do the same soft curve turn and back in. Slowly, slowly -- what's the hurry? Now, why did you goose the throttle when you were going for the brake? Well, in an unfamiliar move, that may have started catching you off balance, the natural thing to do is to grip the ends of the handlebar and of course our wrists naturally roll back (rather then up). Unfortunately, on the right side, that end is the throttle and even the slightest wrist roll back would have jumped that big 1100 forward even while your attention was focused on using the front brake. Small steps with that big bike Lynn! Get the basics down, giving yourself plenty of room to maneuver, and then gradually added more sophisticated, coordinated moves that involve all controls at once. Yes, it can be done the way you describe, but I can guarantee you that after riding 24 years, I still prefer to handle my bike near obstacles (ie. curbs) with the greatest of care and respect. Too much to go wrong too fast. And like I said, what's the hurry?! – Mama (P.S. I love the site you noted for learning how to pick up a dropped bike -- totally cool and USEFUL! I'll add it to my Cool Links list and the Riding Techniques -- Pick Up Bike page). For Lynn who jumped the curb trying to brake and throttle at the same time: When I first began riding, I had a similar problem that you are experiencing. I would reach for the brake and when I squeezed, I would also roll on the throttle (however usually when this happened my hand was also covering the clutch so I was able to nullify the affects of doing this). It just so happened that I had this happen during the MSF class and my instructor immediately told me why it was happening: I was grabbing the throttle too high so when I would squeeze the brake, the palm of my hand would roll on the throttle. Keep your wrist lower than your knuckles on the throttle, and when you reach for the brake, your hand will naturally roll the throttle forward which will prevent there from being anything to roll back when you squeeze. Hope this helps, good luck. – Amy (note from Mama: now this sounds like something that can easily be followed and mastered!) Never, ever, EVER hit the front brake when you’re in a turn. Never, ever, EVER. Did I say NEVER yet? It’s an almost guaranteed way to drop the bike under the circumstances you mentioned. You need to adjust your speed before the turn…You might want to consider “Ride Like A Pro” – the Motorman’s video set. It does a nice job of elaborating on what the MSF course covers. If you don’t develop the habit of using your front brake in a turn like that, you won’t do it at a speed that could really send you flying. Congrats on getting up, dusting yourself off, and getting back on the horse! – Ki (note from Mama: I agree, much better to slow to an appropriate speed before ever beginning a turn -- thanks for the stern warning and reminder!) Tuesday, October 21 For Lynn who jumped the curb trying to brake and throttle at the same time: I had the same problem and what I do is that I keep my wrist low and reach for the brake - if I had my wrist high I can very easily roll on the throttle but when I have my wrist low there is no leverage to roll on the throttle. That is what works for me. – Ambitious Angela (note from Mama: I'm actually trying the high/low wrist thing right at my computer and can see how this would alter the roll/non-roll of the throttle) Wednesday, October 22 Dear
VTwin Mama, But I got back at it in August and have been doing great (by my standards). Before I had to quit I had ridden about 4 weekends, getting in some good practice but it seemed like every time I went out I discovered something I needed to put extra effort into, like better stops or better take offs or leaning more etc. Two of my biggest fears were dropping the bike (which I have done more than once and always vowed to never let it happen again...but it did) and being in what in my mind were tight spots (at the gas station parking lot, pulling out of a parking space with little room to maneuver) but my husband told me anytime I was uncomfortable with any of those situations to "do the Albatross walk." He said "What do Albatross do when they come in for a landing on water?" It worked great for me and has helped me gain immense confidence. If I feel uncomfortable with a situation I just "walk the walk." I have even seen big guys do it. Maybe the Albatross walk will help others. Also I realized that if I'm uneasy with pulling out of a spot I can always just back up until I'm comfortable and then go (I have no problem with doing a full lock and backing up). And don't hurry! Ride your own ride and if the person you are riding with cares they will wait for you. I have truly enjoyed your site and have felt comfort in hearing others address issues so similar to some of mine. Keep up the good work! Your positive words work wonders! – Rhonda Dear
Rhonda, As one "walker" to another (!) -- I agree -- although I call it "duck walking a bike," the thought is the same -- you are using the limbs that God (or evolution) gave you to help steady things out! That's why big guys, experienced gals, beginners and everyone else uses the technique when appropriate -- better to look like a duck than having to start quacking when you cause a bigger problem trying to look "not Albatross." Ha ha. Sigh. – Mama Thursday, October 23 From Lynn who jumped the curb when hitting the throttle and brake at the same time: I sure appreciate all the great tips. I have already begun trying to keep my wrist lower on the throttle and can see how that would help prevent this problem. I will continue working on ingraining this into my 'muscle memory' and automated instinct. Interesting that during my MSF class, they had us do the figure 8 exercises while feathering the clutch and using the front brake. But after the tips here, I will try to avoid the front brake while turning. I did order the Video that was suggested also and will provide a review once it arrives if others are interested. I've also found a lot of good tips in the book "Proficient Motorcycling", available from Amazon. Happy to say I've gotten back on the bike and out for my first longer ride (150 miles or so). It was exhilarating! I was fortunate to have someone accompany me this time and it really boosted my confidence. I now know that I can ride beyond the parking lot and even on some twisty, windy roads though am taking it slow and at my own speed. More parking lot practice is also in store for me. Thanks for this excellent web site! – Lynn (note from Mama: feathering the clutch lever with the left hand while alternately using the right hand to give the bike a little gas or brake is vastly different than using the throttle and front brake at the same time with the same hand (with the clutch fully engaged). Glad to hear you are consulting a number of sources to continue learning and picking up tips -- which still leaves you with the "real-life" lessons that unfortunately are unavoidable -- as you found out! Still, the ups and downs of learning are well worth it when you have a longer ride and confidence booster -- yahoo! Well worth the learning curve!) Friday, March 19 Hey
VTwin Mama, Yesterday I got on someone else's tricked out Sporty while my boyfriend was on an Ultra Classic in front. I had ridden it a couple of miles and getting more comfy with it when we headed down a country road. About six miles into the ride, on a straight, dry path, seemed was well when out of nowhere a wind blows me to the ditch side of the road! Being that I have only been riding for a few weeks, my inexperienced self could not get it together and away from the side. I think I actually death gripped, even the throttle and full force at 45 miles per hour took off into a 5 ft deep ditch! Thank the good Lord I walked up the ditch to meet my boyfriend who was keeping a look in his mirror and turned to pick me up! Teeth full of mud and major bruises and swelling and a possible broke right thumb, I have survived my first and hopefully last crash! My pride is hurt the worst. What happened to me?? I was cruising just fine then so quickly I felt blown to the right side and speeding up and couldn't get back to blacktop. I feel like such an idiot. I will definitely ride my own Sporty from now on. Unlike the one I crashed, my has buckhorn handlebars, regular controls. I thought I wanted to change those things but now I believe my comfort level with my own bike should stay as is and all Sportys are not the same! Has anyone has this happen to them before? I can't rest my clutch hand on my lap either because I veer to the right too bad!! Spooked but will get on my own 883 soon and keep riding! I love you VTwin Mama -- you are an awesome help to us newbies!!! – Biker Tammy in Alabama Dear
Biker Tammy, So, what happened. Well, Mother Nature came up to force and you weren't ready or experienced enough to anticipate it. That's it! That's the worst of it! Bet you listen to the wind forecasts a LOT closer for future rides -- as well as identifying the stretches of road that tend to have these anomalies. And then you get yourself to an empty parking lot for some practice time in counter steering. This is the art of pushing on the opposite side of the handlebar from the direction you don't want to be heading! For instance, if the wind was pushing you to the right, you use your left hand to push the handlebar on that side to counteract the force. Try it. In a straight line with plenty of room ahead of you, get into second gear, then gently push one side of the handlebar -- and I don't mean "steer" it, I mean gently lean on it with the palm of your hand -- no death grips please (which on the throttle side of things can really place you in a worse situation). See how the bike responds?! It heads in that direction, and pretty quickly! The harder the "push," the faster it moves. Learn to do this instead of trying to steer your way out of situations, which may include wind, road obstacles and the like. The response is faster and more effective and a lesson well worth practicing. And as you've mentioned, the lesson well-learned, you may have been a bit too green to be taking riding time on a strange bike. Learn your own bike thoroughly first and then you'll be in position to ride other bikes. Meanwhile, take comfort in the fact that you are not alone and it will make for a great story in years to come. Really! I've got enough "true confessions" to fill a book -- and they ain't all pretty! But I learned from them and kept on going. 25 years worth now! Take heart and keep riding sister! – Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Sandi, My take on stops is to think before you do! Huh?! That's right -- you need to do a better job of sizing up the ground (gravel or whatever), the slope (which way will you be leaning) or other obstacles. That way, when you come to a stop and go to plant your feet, you've got a better chance of handling the situation or opting for a better stopping place if possible. Duck walking your way through a sharp turn at low speeds is my answer! And I don't think there is ever any shame in doing this. It saves the bike's body parts! However, the skill can be mastered (without duck walking) when you understand the forces at work (and how to slip your clutch/throttle controls in unison with each other). The technique is to basically only let out enough clutch lever with the minimum amount gas needed at the same time, and then you "slip" both of these in and out as needed to control the bike at the lowest speed possible. Practicing in an empty parking lot would be useful. In a straight line, get some speed in first gear, then, without using the brake and still in a straight line, let the bike slow down and pull in the clutch -- then let out only enough clutch and throttle to keep the bike going. This takes some practice, but is well worth it. At first you may kill the engine at a few times as you figure out the ratio of clutch leverl to throttle you'll need, but you'll get it! Then practice the same thing in a wide curve. Then tighten up the curve! Voila, slow speed turns under control! Might I suggest you consider getting the Ride Like a Pro (and now they have the Ride Like a Pro for the Ladies) video. I believe the techniques are well explained and might be a useful learning tool on a number of riding skills you'll always be glad you've mastered! – Mama Sunday, July 4 Dear
VTwin Mama, Well, my husband and I went out and bought an HD Lowrider for my first bike. It is gorgeous and HEAVY. I am 5'5" so it is a good height. I am totally flat footed on it. We took it out for the first time last night just on the road in front of my house and I dropped it trying to get my feet up and go. (Before that I was just staying in the friction zone and duck walking.) In the process of getting the bike going I have a tendency to rev the throttle which really sends the bike (and rider) out of control. Then I looked down. YIKES!!! I know, I know but it is instinct. It seems to happen (over revving the throttle) when I am applying the front brake. Any suggestions...my throttle grip doesn't seem too big for my hand. It seems to be more hand position, but I don't know how to break the habit. In order to prevent a recurrence of last night I am
trying to lay down some rules that my husband will need to live by. Finally, am I crazy to try to attack this bike as my first? I really agonized over the decision and went between the Lowrider, Sportster and the Buell Blast. Everything that I read about the Sportster seemed to indicate that it was really top heavy and not a great bike for a beginner. The Blast we felt that I would grow out of relatively fast so we decided to get the long term bike. My riding instructor recommended against the Lowrider and suggested getting a used 500cc bike to practice on for a year or two. As you can see, I am looking for encouragement and suggestions. Both would be welcome. Surprisingly, I am not discouraged by this as I think that it is just part of learning on a new, heavy, more powerful bike. – Karen B. Dear
Karen, Yes, many people report that they preferred to get their "licks" in on a used, less powerful bike for 6 months. This is mainly to save the paint job on a new bike (and associated parts that have a habit of bending, scratching, etc.). But did you make the wrong call? Absolutely not! You are quickly learning to establish ground rules for yourself and listening to your gut. Empty parking lots are an excellent home to learn on. Rolling the throttle while trying to use the front brake is a "newbies" challenge and the instantaneous power is even more alarming. So, what to do?! Go out to the garage and sit on your bike. Place your right hand on the throttle and look at your hand position. Your wrist should be straight. If it is cocked down, this will be one reason you "rev up" quickly when your fingers go to curl around the front brake lever (your palm will first roll up to get the lever, but then will naturally roll even further down as you try to pull the lever in). Now, try it with a straight wrist, and keep it straight (or even slightly cocked up). See the difference?! When you go to brake, your hand naturally rolls towards the brake lever, keeping your hand from jamming on the throttle). Next, start up the bike in the garage (door open please!), stay in neutral and try braking without revving the throttle. Repeat until you've got it. As you get more experienced, you'll find that your hand can be in any position as you'll figure out to roll/cock your hand/palm up before applying the brake. Hmmmm . . . we often mention that sitting at your kitchen table, closing your eyes, and envisioning your upcoming practice session as a good tool. It lets you imagine the situations you are describing and preplanning what you will do if/when it happens. See yourself on the bike with the engine running. Put your hands out in front of you just like you would on the bike. Now, practice your sequences of clutch to throttle to brake combinations you need. Over and over until it's like your hands are doing what they need to do without you thinking the whole mess to death. Are you looking down? Of course not. Keep practicing this anytime you get a chance (looks weird, but it's for a really good cause!). Now, get thee to the parking lot. Head up and try your first sequence. I am NOT surprised to hear that you are not discouraged -- after all, this is your dream in the making and anything worth doing is worth keeping at until the goals are reached. And there are a lifetime of riding goals out there to keep you interested and happy for a very long time! We look forward to giving you your first biker waves out on the road! – Mama Tuesday, July 6 Dear
VTwin Mama, A couple of days ago, my husband bought me a Honda Rebel, figuring this would be a good "beginner" bike for me to learn how to ride... I am very happy with the comfort of the bike, and some of the progress that I have made "putt-ing" around in the high school parking lot... but I am 43 years old, and never drove a stick shift car or a motorcycle, and am having difficulty "getting" downshifting... I can start out alright in 1st gear, can shift up into second and third... and have downshifted from those gears back down to first... (that is as far as I have gotten) but it is a little on the "rough" side downshifting, especially from 2nd to 1st.... My husband has only taken me out about 3 or 4 times for a little over a half an hour each time, and assures me that I will get "smoother" with more practice...but I feel like I am "missing" something... I can hear the sound of the engine when it is time to shift up, and am learning to do so pretty smoothly... but never quite sure I understand when to downshift...and how to have it be more of a "fluid" smooth transition... Is there a web site you can recommend, or some tips you can give that would help me understand better? I want to badly to be able to "get" this, and eventually one day in the future be able to ride with my husband, but as it is right now I feel kind of stupid even though he keeps telling me how surprisingly well I am doing... I do see progress, but still feel jittery and under-confident about really picking this up... I keep feeling like once I have a certain "understanding" that I don't seem to have now, I am going to say "OOOH, DUH!" I hope anyway... I don't want to take the motorcycle safety course unless it is a last resort... it is expensive where I live, has a 2 month waiting list, and is pretty far from my home...I have read and re-read both the owners manual and safety booklet that came with the bike, and will continue to practice... am I missing something or is it normal for us newbies to feel so stupid and uncoordinated? Thanks in advance for any help you can give, – Marshwiggle Dear
Marshwiggle And the key is practice, practice and more practice. The fact is that you can stop the bike without down shifting at all! The only reason to downshift is so that you are not braking the bike to a stop like you would with an automatic transmission car. And you can stop a manual transmission bike a lot faster by downshifting, a very helpful skill to have when a light turns red sooner than you expected (which is quite often!). You are gaining a measure of comfort on shifting up, so now it's time to learn something from it. Besides how the engine sounds that triggers the "oops, time to upshift," take a peek at the speedometer and see what speed you are at for each gear upshift. Now, in your empty parking lot, choose a straight line with no obstacles. Bring the bike to third and then let the bike slow to the speed where you upshifted for second gear. Downshift at that same speed and slowly let out the clutch. How did it feel? Was the bike still a little too reved up or was it a smooth transition? Now, adjust your downshift at a slightly slower (or higher) speed and find that "natural" sound you're looking for. Easy does it! The key is letting the clutch lever out slowly so if the bike is too reved up (and scares you) you can quickly pull it back in, bleed some more speed off, and let it out again. Over and over and over. What a great campfire story this will make sometime in the future! And yes, as your husband has noted, you're getting better and if you're determined to learn, this too shall pass. – Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, I am close to 70.....and my husband now is shouting at me that I start off wrong and will kill myself. I have always started off this way because of the safety course. He says it is something I made up......why would I make something up that has always been harder for me? Maybe, IT IS IN MY MIND. Can you tell me? I learned in safety course that before taking off, you put the bike in gear while holding the clutch and front brake, put your left foot back on the ground, put your right foot on the pedal next to the rear brake, and release clutch while giving gas. He says......this is dangerous......and I should put the bike in gear and once it is going put both feet up simultaneously. Please provide me the correct way of start off.........I've had this right foot method hard-wired into my brain all of these years...........but I want to do it the correct way. I HAVE never dropped the bike while riding it. Aloha, – Carol W. Dear
Carol, So, should we generalize that men are know-it-alls and feel the need to "instruct" or should we just understand that he is not keeping an open mind to your stellar safety record in starting off?! I'm sure that your years of marriage have gotten you to a place where humor is the best response, so maybe constructing a little "ditty" for this one would be appropriate. How about, "Back off ol' man, I'm a rebellious rider with a Rebel to boot." Or try, "Maybe you have to be rigid with that Softail, but by Rebel allows for greater freedom of choice." Or the more direct approach, "When I crash on a start-up, I'll ask for your advice." Hmmmm . . . Meanwhile, kudos to you for starting to ride at 58 and keeping it going at near 70. I'd be proud to give you a biker wave any time! You represent the best in women's spirits and we are happy to call you SISTER! – Mama Monday, July 19 For Carol who at 70 is enduring a hubby who thinks he knows best: This is for that awesome lady, Carol W. who is still riding at 70 years young and wants to know if there’s a “correct” way of starting out. Allow me to quote directly from what we coaches refer to around here as “The Big Book” which is the MSF RiderCoach Guide that we take our training from. On Exercise 2, the first time students actually ride across the range: “ Power walk (a.k.a. duck walk) until speed is stable”, translated: take a couple of steps as the bike move out. And then from our Policies and Procedures for Washington State: “Starts with Both Feet on the Ground: When beginning riders move from a stop, they should move in a straight line. This minimizes directional-control and balance problems. If one foot is on the ground and the other on a foot peg, the motorcycle leans slightly toward the foot that is down. This causes the motorcycle’s initial movement, to be slight turn in the direction of the lean. The rider must immediately make a steering correction to maintain the desired path and to regain balance. This correction is frequently too large, and the rider has difficulty from the beginning. Starting with both feet down helps keep the motorcycle’s initial movement balanced and in a straight line.” Now, with that said; IMHO, I would tell you that you’re not a beginning rider and after 12 years of starting out with your right foot up and it working for you without a problem of veering as you take off (which IS a safety issue), I’d tell hubby to get off your a** about it. And again and ALWAYS ‘ride your own ride’. – HammerLady (note from Mama: that's right! Well said and thanks for sharing official guidelines from the MSF. For those of you newer to the site, HammerLady hosts an open chat forum for riders at http://www.shinnysideup.com and is a frequent contributor of polished knowledge -- after all, she is an instructor!) Tuesday, July 20 More for Carol who at 70 is enduring a hubby who thinks he knows best: Two feet down, one up, what ever -- YOU are an Inspiration to me! My partner remarked to me "there is not a gear low enough to keep up with you." Well, I was on my Rebel 250 ( I loved my Rebel) and yes he ticked me off. I told him that he hurt my feelings when he said that and I will not ride if I am not feeling well, tired, or upset. He tried to say something about my speed and I cut him off and said "You ride at your speed and I ride at mine." I did not ride any faster than I felt comfortable riding. He may want to fly around the corners and go on the main roads. So I said "If you want to ride with me, I call the shots." He looked at me funny then I said "when you go by yourself, you call the shots." I did not ride with him for a whole season. The next season he said "hey you want to go for a ride and you call the shots." Well that was three years ago, so not he remarks, "who takes lead?" You do what you do best and if he don't like it "tough beans". – Chromebroom, aka Jacque (note from Mama: a direct and honest statement of what you need/want is often necessary to get the point across. Thanks for letting Carol know that it's ok to put your foot down (literally!) and say what you really think so there is no doubt of your feelings!) Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Judy, One thing I also like to do is clamp
my knees tight around the tank and see that my hips/knees/lower body can
really maneuver the bike around a bit (try a little lean and you’ll see
what I mean!), making it easier to understand that a death grip on the
handlebars is simply not necessary (and quite detrimental in some cases
like loose gravel, grooved pavement and sand!). Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
J.P., Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Edna, Try this. Get some speed up (even maybe into second gear) and then let the bike coast in gear but without any more throttle. Immediately begin pulling in the clutch lever and then slowly let it out to feel exactly where the point of engagement is (you don't need to work the throttle at this point). Keep pulling it in and letting it out until you've got a better feel. If you've got enough unobstructed area, you can actually practice this in even a higher gear, the thing being that you want enough speed built up so you don't have to concern yourself with the throttle right away, just pulling in and letting out the clutch lever to engage and disengage and learning by memory where that point is. Then, again with speed built up, disengage the clutch, then re-engage the clutch, only this time with a little throttle. Then, try the whole mess back down in first gear. Do not be discouraged if this takes some time to master . . . it is considered a more advanced skill, but if you can gain some control over it before taking your class, you'll be that much farther ahead! Also, you'll find that the clutch on the bike you ride in your class will have a different point and feel of engagement/disengagement. But you'll quickly find it if you just work the clutch lever a few times so that your hand "memorizes" the spot. Good luck! – Mama Wednesday, August 18 For Edna who is learning to slip the clutch: If she drives a stick-shift car, perhaps that will help. With first gear, one eases out the clutch more slowly, second gear, a little more quickly, etc. But first is the hardest to master on a car or bike because of the slow-easing-out of the clutch thang. Perhaps this will help. One day years back I tried to teach my brother to drive a stick; finally the second day, I realized I hadn't told him of the first-gear thing. Once I did, he got it pretty quickly. :-) – Bryna (note from Mama: I have to admit that knowing how to drive a stick shift car did make the transition to motorcycle riding a little easier. But as noted, the engagement point and timing is not only different for each and every bike/vehicle, it's also different just between the gears themselves. Who thought up this mess in the first place?!) Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Diane, Or, and this is really fun, go online for aftermarket catalogs yourself. One example is J&P, the big Harley aftermarket company. Hours of shopping at your fingertips, great for winter “dreaming” and sometimes you learn the name of a part you never knew before! – Mama Monday, August 23 For J.P. who was having problems finding neutral: I have a Vulcan with positive neutral finder, a good option at stops, but what is not common knowledge, it is almost impossible to find neutral on the fly even at coming to a stop (slow speeds). Actually, I would prefer a bike without this option. There is a special touch to shift 1/2 a step up from 1st gear at stops because it's contrary to all other full step shifts. This only comes from practice and experience. I like to be in neutral short when I stop (after down shifting), but with this automatic neutral finder it is almost impossible no matter how much you practice! – Kathy (note from Mama: after 25 of years of riding, I still miss neutral on occasion! What is that?! Still, practice does make things better over time, but there is nothing funnier than seeing an experienced rider rev the throttle only to have the engine roar with no forward movement. Unless it's me. Then it's not funny. So stop laughing already!) Tuesday, August 24 For Angela who was experiencing aches in the arms and shoulder blades: I have logged 48.000 miles on my Vulcan 500 LTD in only 2 years. The only ache I have experiences is the one you speak of (arm and shoulder blade.) I have found the best way to cure this is to avoid it in the first place. To do so, you must practice in a safe environment an alternate riding position to alleviate the stiffness. Try intermittently placing your left hand (clutch hand) behind you on the seat for short periods during your rides. I am sure you will feel the relief instantly and prevent more of it. Once again, I must stress practice to safely make this position second nature. – Kathy (note from Mama: I'm glad you stressed practice, but agree that a rider can place arms in different positions and even stretch out a bit to relieve cramping.) Tuesday, August 31 For Angela who was experiencing aches in the arms and shoulder blades: I had the same problem to the point of cramping. I added 4" pullback risers for my handlebars and that cured the problem. I never get the cramping anymore, as a matter of fact I had forgot about it till I read your post. – Diane (note from Mama: yes, handlebar position does greatly affect our overall body position on the bike. I often note that if you sit on your bike and just stretch your arms out to a comfortable position, you can see if the handlebar ends are in an easy, natural position for you. If the ends aren't right where it feels natural, it's time to make an adjustment. For you, adding pullback risers, an easy installation, was the solution. For others, it may mean getting a new handlebar altogether. That's where J&P Cycles article on the subject comes in handy!) Saturday, September 4 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Shannon, Bikes in the 125-150cc range are usually dirt bikes, although many are street legal if they have a horn, turn signals and a headlight. It's time to go shopping! Visit local dealers and have a salesperson show you around. One thing I'll note is that these type of bikes typically sit high as they are designed to have clearance going through brush and you'll need to explore whether they could be lowered. – Mama Friday, September 10 Dear
VTwin Mama, The trick does require you to find that point where the clutch is slipping, but also gripping just enough to make the bike move forwards. Once you’ve found this point, lock your hands/fingers in that position and use the back brake to control your speed (you can even stop completely with the back brake, the bike should still be revving just a little over idle, but it won't move until you release the back brake). It makes it easier to adjust your line if you’re too fast or too slow in a slow tight turn (like a figure 8 or u-turn). I find that just using the throttle and clutch is too jerky and gets you unnecessarily tensed for low speed maneuvers (walking pace), especially for beginners. Just so that you know, us blokes also get the jitters into blind corners… we just don’t admit it freely. The way I see it, your bike is your buddy, it’ll let know if it thinks you (or the bike) are ready for a corner, the only way it can do this is through your body. Beginners feel the “bike talk” as jitters, more experienced riders call it gut feeling . . . either way it’s telling you that you need to ride at your own speed and no one else’s. Be smooth and keep the rubber side down. – Danger Mouse Dear
Danger Mouse, I like how you put it about the bike "talking" to its rider. Becoming one with a motorcycle requires much practice and when the bike doesn't appear to be doing what you want, it simply means that more practice is necessary to learn how the bike handles and how you, as a rider, can learn what those characteristics are! That's why I also advocate that upon getting a "new" bike, it's always best to take it slowly so that the individual characteristics of "that" bike are learned. They DO vary from model to model! I know that when I was going to take my friend's BMW for an extended trip, I first rode 1,000 miles locally to get "the hang" of it . . . and boy, am I glad I did, or I would have found out the hard way that shifting down from third to second gear is tremendously different than my '76 Superglide. Could have pitched over the handlebars otherwise if I needed to do a quick slow down move to avoid a bad situation! – Mama Monday, September 27 Dear
VTwin Mama, I have trouble with U turns and the dreaded cones but think practice and all the techniques I have read about will help that. My real problem is that my wrists, elbows and shoulders get sore after a long ride even just on a scooter. I am trying not to clench the handlebars and to balance through my legs/seat which helps. Because of this I have enormous trouble putting it on and off its centre stand without wrenching my right wrist lifting it as I push down with my foot. It does not have a kickstand and it is only 106 kg. I am small and light build and do not have much upper body strength (yet). I really admire the brave ladies who ride the big bikes and post in your site. Can you help me with centre stand tips? Thanks. – Helen Dear
Helen, As to center stand tips, I got this from a site titled Motorcycle Training: The Beginners Guide: 1.
Position yourself on the left of the motorcycle, holding the left
handlebar with the left hand Hope this helps you re-review how you've been doing it! Meanwhile, you might have fun joining a scooter-specific discussion forum. I found this one "promoting scooter discussion." Check it out! – Mama |
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